SE-R alignment

[jclemen]

Steve M, Chuck B, Randy W


Hi guys,

I have alignment specs for the se-r as 3/8 toe out front, 1/64 toe in rear along with the use of some smaller (factory issued) lower strut mount bolts for neg camber.
Did you guys do this type of alignment? I'd like a balance between full time autox car and something I can drive to work occasionally. These number were used with a 14x6 wheel, not sure if the 15x7's im using change that.
Any help to go faster than you is appreciated... :D

Jeff

[rdub]

hey Jeff its Randy
I did 1/4 total toe out in front
and 1/8 total TOE OUT in the rear
that will get the rear to rotate better
also loosen the front sway bar mounts some,so the front bar doesn't act so quickly
I didn't find any FACTORY authorized crashbolts that were legal in STOCK class
but loosening the lower strut to spindle bolts and tugging on them
in a "negative camber way" will help
also loose the top strut mounts an lever them inward will help
I got 3/4 degree negative camber with all that tugging
If you do use small diameter crash bolts once they're torqued paint a white line from head to strut to make sure they don't loose
Had to do that on my MR2
what are ya building the car to do?

[chuck b]

i dunno!
I've never fooled around with alignment, but maybe this year. plus, you're already faster than me, so i should be asking you the questions. so all in all, ardub's the guy in the know. I also tried factory bolts and they were the exact same size as the originals. I found everything so tight, that when I changed shocks and tried some heaving/leaning/wedging to induce camber, the car's alignment was the same as before! I should get stronger friends.

How does one "loosen" the front sway bar? Isn't either snug or loose? And doesn't loose mean that it would clang around a bit, so that during the first part of a turn would cause the sway bar to accelerate towards the bushing, and then abruptly contact it?

a word of warning- if your car is prepped somehow, i'd recommend also fixing the steering lockup problem pronto, since our small lots tend to have "bad" courses.

i look forward to having you back driving ridiculously quickly.

[jclemen]

Muchos Gracias Amigos...

I was poking around on the se-r page today and came across those figures. Its actually from Mark Chiles, dude won dstock at the nationals in 92 or 93 with one of these. Although I raced this same car back in 94/95 in d-stock, I believe the car is now csp due to its lowered springs and larger wheels. Its been awhile for me, rules may have changed. Could be dsp, I'm sure you guys know.
So, the article talks about a part change in late 91 for the lower strut mount bolts. They suggest using these and a c-clamp to help dial in the neg camber. Interstingly enough Chuck, they do talk about rounding up some burley friends as another option.
The front toe out, it says, is to help steering response. The rear toe in is to keep the rear balanced. I used to do the sway bar trick to get the car to rotate, it used to plow otherwise.
Randy, I'd like the car to be neutral, but with a little oversteer. Meaning, I'd like it to corner well in slow/med turns, but also drift a little in higher speed turns. Too much to ask? How about something in between? Btw- went with the yoko avs 100 in a 195/50-15.
The FIRST thing I have to do is fix the annoying tire rub. Chuck, point me in the right direction on the power steering thing. I used to think I was totally cool when that happened. :D

Jeff
Weasin the data...

[rdub]

jeff
you should run the car in STS since you have street tires but have bigger wheels and lowering springs,no Stock class for you!
But now you can get a bigger rear sway bar get camber plates for the front struts
and really dial it in

[jclemen]

Ah yes. sts. Ive got to get a rulebook...


Thanks to all

[StevenMosley]

You guys really get into the dialing in your cars. The GTI I raced last
year that Rex Jr. bought would probably be the most dialed in car I have
ever done. I added Tokico struts/springs combo, rolledl the front and rear fenders lips, had my brother build a sweet rear swaybar (shine has nothing on him), put in a clutch, and replaced the Tokico springs with a set of H&R race springs. I didn't play with the camber or allignment. I did try a ton of tire pressure adjustments though.

I'm still trying to figure out the driver part I guess. Maybe John Boos could give us some hints on the Integra. My brother and I stopped listening and started laughing when he said the car had a fat squirrel under the under for a motor.