WRX Auto-x / Daily Driver Alignment Help

[Steve in Minnesota]

I put STI wagon specific springs on my '04 Wagon several weeks ago and finally got all the bugs worked out this weekend (operator / installer error....myself :rolleyes: ).

I want to get an alignment done this week before Evo this weekend.

Can anyone out there in Suby / Mitsu land (or elswere) give me some educated suggestions for an alignment set-up taking the following info into account:

'04 WRX Wagon
STI springs that dropped < 1" from stock height
Pirelli P-Zero Nero M&S P225/40ZR16's on stock rims
Been running 42# F / 40# R for auto-x (Punt)
Oversized Helix Adjustable Rear Swaybar set on Medium
Oversized Helix Front Swaybar
Strut tower bars F/R
Daily driven 50 mile round trip (mostly highway) commute to work

Any help suggestions for alignment suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Steve B
#593

[MNbiker]

Hmm, I know a wee bit about setting up a WRX wagon... ;)

Assuming you only have the stock camber adjustments, there isn't a ton you can do.

First, go for MAXIMUM negative camber - and I mean every last tenth you can squeeze out of the thing. Have the shop loosen & wiggle everything to get as much negative camber as possible. You'll probably get no more than -1.0, which will be just fine for street driving.

For a street-driven car, I'd have the shop set both front & rear toe at zero. For autox, you should learn how to add some toe-out at events. It takes all of 5 minutes to do, and will make the car understeer far less in sweeping turns. I can show you how to do this at Valleyfair, if you want.

At some point, you may want to pick up some camber eccentric bolts for the rear, so you can reduce the rear negative camber. This is a cheap ($30) way to get the car to turn better, with no real negatives on the street.

I'd recommend experimenting with tire pressures a bit. With low-profile tires like you have, I'd run the fronts up to at least 43-45psi. Given your limited ability to adjust alignment, I'd use rear tire pressure to help make the car turn. I'd start with something like 48-50psi in back, and go from there.

I'd set the rear bar on full stiff.

[Steve in Minnesota]

Hmm, I know a wee bit about setting up a WRX wagon... ;)

Assuming you only have the stock camber adjustments, there isn't a ton you can do.

First, go for MAXIMUM negative camber - and I mean every last tenth you can squeeze out of the thing. Have the shop loosen & wiggle everything to get as much negative camber as possible. You'll probably get no more than -1.0, which will be just fine for street driving.

For a street-driven car, I'd have the shop set both front & rear toe at zero. For autox, you should learn how to add some toe-out at events. It takes all of 5 minutes to do, and will make the car understeer far less in sweeping turns. I can show you how to do this at Valleyfair, if you want.

At some point, you may want to pick up some camber eccentric bolts for the rear, so you can reduce the rear negative camber. This is a cheap ($30) way to get the car to turn better, with no real negatives on the street.

I'd recommend experimenting with tire pressures a bit. With low-profile tires like you have, I'd run the fronts up to at least 43-45psi. Given your limited ability to adjust alignment, I'd use rear tire pressure to help make the car turn. I'd start with something like 48-50psi in back, and go from there.

I'd set the rear bar on full stiff.

Steve

Thanks for the great info!

I actually have a set of rear camber bolts sitting on the work bench at home. I was planning on having the alignment shop put those in if it became necessary. Do you mean take the camber in the rear as close to zero as possible?

If there is time on Saturday I would appreciate you showing me the toe adjustment if it isn't a pain in the butt.

Thanks again!

Steve

[MNbiker]

Steve

Thanks for the great info!

I actually have a set of rear camber bolts sitting on the work bench at home. I was planning on having the alignment shop put those in if it became necessary. Do you mean take the camber in the rear as close to zero as possible?

If there is time on Saturday I would appreciate you showing me the toe adjustment if it isn't a pain in the butt.

Thanks again!

Steve

I just noticed I didn't specify maximum FRONT negative camber. :rolleyes:

I would have the shop put in the rear eccentric bolts, as there is otherwise zero camber adjustment in back. I'd have them set rear camber to something like -.5 degrees. That may alleviate the need to add toe out - at least for faster lots like St. Cloud, DCTC & Valleyfair.

Long-term, it would be a good idea to get some front camber plates. You can safely run -2 degrees camber on the street, and your front tires will thank you.