Make Your Own Numbers

[phile]

MAKE YOUR OWN NUMBERS

The ones I make myself are actually more visible than many of the ones you
can buy, and will work on any color car.

I use the heavy-duty white magnetic background and black 3M ControlTac (NOT SCOTCHCAL!) film.

I print on my printer at home in Helvetica Bold or similar simple sanserif
font and use the outline style to save on ink. Roughly cut out numbers,
leaving a half-inch or so of paper outside the outline. Punch holes in
paper numbers with a paper punch.

(Rocky Mountain Solo has a page where you can print from a PDF. Go to
http://www.rmsolo.org/makenumbers.html This will use up more toner than
outline numbers, though.)

Lay out the rough-cut numbers on black film. Put a square of scotch tape
over each punched hole.

Cut out the numbers with scissors, following the lines on the paper.

Peel off the paper outline.

The 3M ControlTac film allows pretty easy repositioning until you really
press on it. Even months later, I have found that it can be removed with
patience and fingernails. Putting it in the freezer first helps.

Using a white background insures that the numbers will work on any color
car. Studies have shown that monochrome reflection contrast is the only
thing that really counts. Color-contrast is essentially worthless. The best
contrast is, predictably, black and white.

Large magnetic pieces stay on the car better than numbers cut out of
magnetic material. I have put large magnetics on cars bridging over rubber
trim, and they still stayed on the car at autocross speeds.

[Gspot]

Slightly less involved:
Print numbers on sticker paper (office max, or best buy)
Stick numbers on magnetic sheet, then place laminating sheets over numbers.

[DCM]

Well we need 'em.
And like Phil, our resident curmudgeon say's; the first time is allright, but after that, participants should have good readable numbers.
[Sorry Phil, but....... It's you or me...............]
Let's get 'er done folk's.


Spose' this'll start a curmudgeon war?

[jdlhonda]

I agree we had some really horrible examples of numbers down at La Crosse. Like a 88 Mustang convertible with a 1 on the rear side glass in the color red on a maroon car.

I agree with phile, black on white or the reverse, a little outline doesn't hurt either. I used sheet magnet you can get from a hobby store(hobby lobby in roch) and went to a place that does vinyl sign/graphic had him lay the vinyl on top of the magnet and it works great(cheaper if you can buy the stuff and cut your own letters). Later in the season when I changed classes and didn't want to expense of going to the sign shop I used black elec. tape on the magnet. Worked well too.


Jason

[SUV-ETR]

Later in the season when I changed classes and didn't want to expense of going to the sign shop I used black elec. tape on the magnet. Worked well too.

You know, it took me SIX YEARS of autocrossing to figure that one out! Of course, we usually had reserved numbers and had magnets for those, but every now and then we always went somewhere that we didn't have our number reserved.

The solution we used for most of this time was pretty good: Buy a sheet of magnetic, and cut it into "segments" like you see on your digital clock. Then, you can make any numbers you want! And when you're done, you just stack up the segments and they take up next to no space in the toolbox. The downside is that you have to have good strong magnetic sheet, and if you decide to drive a white car with your white magnets (or any non-contrasting color combo) you can't see it well.

Now, we're doing what jdlhonda suggests. One big white magnetic-backed sheet, with cheap black electircal tape or blue painter's tape on it. It takes a bit more room to store, but you NEVER have to worry about contrasting colors. And it is easier to make class letters if you need to.

Of course, all this presumes you're not driving a Corvette or a Europa. :D

Oh, and last good idea: In FL we decided that SHOE POLISH SUCKS BAD and we got tired of paying a ton of money for blue painter's tape that kept dissappearing. So we sold rolls of blue painter's tape for $5 at registration. Let the competitors beg and mooch from each other instead of bugging the tech inspectors. It worked FABULOUSLY. If you don't let your friends mooch off you, you can make one roll last half the season, and unless your car is blue, it was very visible...

One final link:
http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?pagenum=3464
Get two linear feet of item 5756 K43. Get four feet if you want to have a co-driver. $4.20/ft = pretty frikkin' cheap, and it is nice thick-but-flexible-and-strong magnet!

Neal

[Ivan]

One final link:
http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?pagenum=3464
Get two linear feet of item 5756 K43. Get four feet if you want to have a co-driver. $4.20/ft = pretty frikkin' cheap, and it is nice thick-but-flexible-and-strong magnet!

Neal

Good link!

Sans shipping charges, that's about 2/3 less (per square foot) of the flimsy magnetic material from local fabric stores. Just ordered 4 linear feet, ~8 sq feet.

[SUV-ETR]

Just ordered 4 linear feet, ~8 sq feet.

Perfect. That will be enough for four plates 12"x24", so you and a co-driver can each make numbers out of electrical tape, and swap plates easily between runs.

(BTW, this is what the Subaru was wearing in Iowa)

Neal

[phile]

One final link:
http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?pagenum=3464
Get two linear feet of item 5756 K43. Get four feet if you want to have a co-driver. $4.20/ft = pretty frikkin' cheap, and it is nice thick-but-flexible-and-strong magnet!

Neal

I buy it for $3.40/ft from Midwest Sign right here in Saint Paul.

[MattD]

... Midwest Sign right here in Saint Paul.

Do they have a website I can order from? Cuz, ya know I'm not going to drive all the way to the other side of the river to buy magnetic sheeting! :lol:

Anyone who wants to buy some numbers, I will make you a set of up to 6 numbers and 6 class letters for $40 - your choice of color. PM me or talk to me at an event if interested!

(btw...even though I spend half of my week working in St. Paul, it still feels like I'm traveling to another country whenever I go there...I'll never get used to the place.)

MattD

[DCM]

Ok, so Jerry is the 'Geezer', Phil is the 'Curmudgeon', and I'll take the 'Ol Fogey' title.................

What's left?

Oh yeah, who'll take the, ....fill in the blanks.

[DCM]

Thank you Matt, the numbers are great!

[Michael Clinkscales]

do you have to have class numbers on your car? cause i am not sure what class i want to run yet ?

[phile]

do you have to have class numbers on your car? cause i am not sure what class i want to run yet ?

Yes, you should have class letters on your car. 4-inch minimum height, should be smaller than than your (8-inch minimum) car numbers.

If you are not sure what class, you probably should run SI. (I don't expect that you have been banned from the class for winning it without knowing that you needed class identification on the car.)

[Michael Clinkscales]

so do i have to have numbers for the first event i run? and who do i go to to reserve the numbers i want?

[phile]

>so do i have to have numbers for the first event i run?

You have to have SOME number. If you don't have one reserved, you will have to get one for the day from the numbers guy at Registration. Then you will have to figure out how to get it on the car.

>and who do i go to to reserve the numbers i want?

Me. Go to the "Permanant Number Update" thread in this forum and read the instructions. Cost is one dollar per season.

Also, both Matt Dahlman or I can sell you magnetic numbers.

Mine are 4 dollars per panel. A car with three-digit numbers and SI class panels would cost 32 dollars. Order them with your permanent number request and I can deliver them at the meeting or at the July 10 event.

Notice to all: I don't have time right now to make up 100 digits for spec, and I won't be at every event, so plan ahead.

[Shrep]

>so do i have to have numbers for the first event i run?

You have to have SOME number. If you don't have one reserved, you will have to get one for the day from the numbers guy at Registration. Then you will have to figure out how to get it on the car.

>and who do i go to to reserve the numbers i want?

Me. Go to the "Permanant Number Update" thread in this forum and read the instructions. Cost is one dollar per season.

Also, both Matt Dahlman or I can sell you magnetic numbers.

Mine are 3 dollars per panel. A car with three-digit numbers and SI class panels would cost 24 dollars. Order them with your permanent number request and I can deliver them at the meeting or at the July 10 event.

Notice to all: I don't have time right now to make up 100 digits for spec, and I won't be at every event, so plan ahead.
I could give you a hand making stuff...

[Michael Clinkscales]

ok then is there anyway i could pay you at the july 10th event for both my number reservation and my car&class number magnets

[phile]

ok then is there anyway i could pay you at the july 10th event for both my number reservation and my car&class number magnets
Send the slip in with the buck for the number now. Tell me you want magnetic numbers in that envelope and that you want class letters for SI. I will make up a set of numbers and have them for you July 10. You can pay me 24 bucks for the magnetics then. If you ever win SI, I will buy back the class letters.

Spend the 37 cents. ;)

[Shrep]

Spend the 37 cents.You should just put that in your sig ;)

[phile]

bump, so that people remember what this thread is about.

MAKE YOUR OWN NUMBERS

The ones I make myself are actually more visible than many of the ones you
can buy, and will work on any color car.

I use the heavy-duty white magnetic background and black 3M ControlTac (NOT SCOTCHCAL!) film.

I print on my printer at home in Helvetica Bold or similar simple sanserif
font and use the outline style to save on ink. Roughly cut out numbers,
leaving a half-inch or so of paper outside the outline. Punch holes in
paper numbers with a paper punch.

(Rocky Mountain Solo has a page where you can print from a PDF. Go to
http://www.rmsolo.org/makenumbers.html This will use up more toner than
outline numbers, though.)

Lay out the rough-cut numbers on black film. Put a square of scotch tape
over each punched hole.

Cut out the numbers with scissors, following the lines on the paper.

Peel off the paper outline.

The 3M ControlTac film allows pretty easy repositioning until you really
press on it. Even months later, I have found that it can be removed with
patience and fingernails. Putting it in the freezer first helps.

Using a white background insures that the numbers will work on any color
car. Studies have shown that monochrome reflection contrast is the only
thing that really counts. Color-contrast is essentially worthless. The best
contrast is, predictably, black and white.

Large magnetic pieces stay on the car better than numbers cut out of
magnetic material. I have put large magnetics on cars bridging over rubber
trim, and they still stayed on the car at autocross speeds.

Here is a sample of this style of numbers:

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/92/248055850_1a2850c9c8.jpg


Make them yourself or I will make you a set like this for 40 dollars (5 dollars per 6x10 panel). Send me a private message with the number and class you want.

Special deal for SI-class entrants: If you win the SI class and get banned for life, I will take your 2 SI panels in trade for 2 panels for your new class.

[fitz]

Slightly less involved:
Print numbers on sticker paper (office max, or best buy)
Stick numbers on magnetic sheet, then place laminating sheets over numbers.

1. By a magnetic sheet from your local art supply store.

2. Find a big scissors or a matt knife.

3. Cut away everything that isn't the number.

Whalla!

That's how I got the very big, very readable numbers and class designators on the Blue Meanie. And I had enough magnet sheet left over to slap some stickers on.

Total cost was something like $10. Time involved was maybe 1/2 hour.

[PeteySi]

I lost a number at MOWOG1. That magnetic stuff from the local art supply store is simply too wimpy--its thin and not particularly strong.

I went to midwest sign per Phil's suggestion to get the heavy duty stuff. Using some leftover vinyl from my stripe, I made new numbers and found a storage spot for them:
http://www.geocities.com/petesurdo/DSCF0007.JPG

The sign quality stuff is MUCH stronger.

Sorry, Phil. I know black and white is the best contrast, but red and black on yellow stands out pretty good, too.

[weidnerpaul]

I lost a number at MOWOG1. That magnetic stuff from the local art supply store is simply too wimpy--its thin and not particularly strong.

I went to midwest sign per Phil's suggestion to get the heavy duty stuff. Using some leftover vinyl from my stripe, I made new numbers and found a storage spot for them:
http://www.geocities.com/petesurdo/DSCF0007.JPG

The sign quality stuff is MUCH stronger.

Sorry, Phil. I know black and white is the best contrast, but red and black on yellow stands out pretty good, too.

There is something about that picture that makes me think of Mystic Lake, maybe if there were three sevens in a row...

[fitz]

I lost a number at MOWOG1. That magnetic stuff from the local art supply store is simply too wimpy--its thin and not particularly strong.



Maybe I got better stuff - mine is plenty durable and I have not lost a number in the 4 years I've been using it. Heck, I leave em' on for the drive home more often than not and don't have problems, even with the really small pieces.

[Darryl]

I lost a number at MOWOG1. That magnetic stuff from the local art supply store is simply too wimpy--its thin and not particularly strong.

I went to midwest sign per Phil's suggestion to get the heavy duty stuff. Using some leftover vinyl from my stripe, I made new numbers and found a storage spot for them:
http://www.geocities.com/petesurdo/DSCF0007.JPG

The sign quality stuff is MUCH stronger.

Sorry, Phil. I know black and white is the best contrast, but red and black on yellow stands out pretty good, too.


I think this is the coolest color combo in the club...

[jberman]

I think this is the coolest color combo in the club...

Just so long as you aren't driving a black car ;-)

[PeteySi]

I think he meant WITH the yellow background. At least, thats how I take it. Hey, I need vindication for all the hangover pee/baby poop references I get. So thanks! Not too sure everyone 'round here will share that opinion, but its good to hear.

[noise_is_life]

I think he meant WITH the yellow background. At least, thats how I take it. Hey, I need vindication for all the hangover pee/baby poop references I get. So thanks! Not too sure everyone 'round here will share that opinion, but its good to hear.

Look how fast the stripe and fancy numbers make you, the cameraman can't even keep up!

[ricksellner]

Dwight when are we going to see u again I miss u out there? Someone to counter phils presents you know heheheh.

[AliensRgr8]

I made my numbers using this technique with supplies purchased at home depot.

1. A 3 x 6.5 foot roll of GILA Glare control Static cling window film. $14.00
2. A 25 (I'm guessing) foot x 18 inch of white Contact brand
paper with medium adhesive. $5.00

Both of which were located by the window blinds in the back of the store.

I then found a font I liked of my numbers and printed them out using my computer with the font size set to 700 or 750.

I then made some stencils using an old frozen pizza box. Then I cut out the numbers on the contact paper.

I cut and applied the Gila film to outside of my rear windows, using a water bottle filled with a water and baby shampoo solution and a squeegee. And then put the numbers on the static cling film.

It gives a great contrast with the almost blacked out windows with the white numbers. I did it this way because I was uneasy about putting magnets on my paint. Plus this is reusable as apposed to getting vinyl stickers from a dirt bike shop such as Bob’s cycle supply or Precision line Motor sports. I also have enough left over supplies to make a second set of numbers for when I choose to run in another class.

PGH

[phile]

Bump for another season!

bump, so that people remember what this thread is about.


Here is a sample of this style of numbers:

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/92/248055850_1a2850c9c8.jpg


Make them yourself or I will make you a set like this for 40 dollars (5 dollars per 6x10 panel). Send me a private message with the number and class you want.

Special deal for SI-class entrants: If you win the SI class and get banned for life, I will take your 2 SI panels in trade for 2 panels for your new class.

[phile]

See my new font in the For sale / Wanted forum.

[Jeff (The Alignment Guy)]

I have not decided the best route for numbers on the Honda. The more clubs I try to run the more time I could need to change numbers; magnets, decals... but no tape I hope. I used those digital calculator looking strips on my Champ. Lately I've been thinking about this wash off spray paint:

http://www.duplicolor.com/products/carart.html

For general paint work I'm getting tempted to try this stuff 'cause it's $20/qt (cheaper than "real" paint/reducer/hardener), and there's nothing to mix.

http://www.duplicolor.com/products/paintshop.html

[washburn]

I have a 36" wide color ink jet printer at my office. I wonder if there's roll waterproof sticker material out there that could be printed on and stuck to magnetic sheet?

[Sifu]

Forgive me on this question but...

Do you need numbers on both sides of the car?

[washburn]

Yup! Class letters too.

[phile]

Yup! Class letters too.
You need the class letters at competitive events.

You do not need class letters at the novice school or Test & Tune events.

[phile]

If you want this style of magnetic numbers, contact The Alignment Guy
http://www.thealignmentguy.com/album.htm

[motorholmes]

OK I'm kinda cheap, but I made mine from a large "No Trespassing" sign, cut in half, and x-acto'd some digits out of self adhesive vinyl from Michael's crafts. (Also, one small sign cut in half for the class letter, with elec tape)

http://i281.photobucket.com/albums/kk223/MnJShuey/001-1.jpg

[phile]

Bump for the Rocky Mountain Region site:

http://www.rmsolo.org/makenumbers.html

[phile]

A reminder that I am not making numbers to order anymore. Just too busy

I will tell you my best secret for making numbers: Use 3M ControlTac with Comply. The "Comply" part means there are little air channels. It is almost impossible to capture an air bubble under this stuff.