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MacLotus
11-01-2010, 04:36 PM
http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/EliseTSXK20a2.jpg

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Special Thanks to the following suppliers & supporters...

Alan Gourlay - My inspiration and mentor. Without the original DIY post of your Stark conversion, I would never have attempted this conversion/build. Your dedication to helping others is unparalleled and I can't begin to thank you enough. Cheers mate!

K20A.org Forum Members - www.k20a.org
I would never have been able to figure out the Honda/Acura piece of this engine swap had it not been for you guys. Thanks a bunch for your interest and support. I hope this post inspires others as you all inspired me.

EliseShop - Yvo Tuk - www.elise-shop.com
Yvo was absolutely fantastic with not only advice and assistance, but great peripheral conversion/performance parts (both Lotus and after-market) at a phenomenal price.

ENDYN (Energy Dynamics) - Larry Widmer - www.theoldone.com
Both Larry and Josh were great when it came to helping a newb assemble a great performance-built K24 TSX engine. In a nutshell, they put together a kit of performance parts and machine work that allowed me to enjoy assembly in my own garage. Thanks guys!

Full Blown Motorsports - LJ, Chuck & the gang - http://www.fullblownmotorsports.net
Bottom line: The Full Blown team has been able to take some of my rough concepts and ideas, and bring them to reality through extensive fabrication capabilities and superior craftsmanship, providing innovative ideas and improved engineering throughout the build process. You guys are awesome! Thanks for attention to detail. I felt like I was always the most important customer and forever welcome in your shop.

SNS Automotive Lotus/Honda Conversion Mounts - Steve Davies (aka Stormin Normin) - snsautomotive@hotmail.co.uk
Thank you Steve for breaking the proprietary nature of 'Conversion Mounts' acquisition and making quality parts available to DIY'ers. Without you, our DIY option would be limited. Love your mounts mate!!

Martyn Tinker Lotus/Honda Conversion Drive Shafts - mfa.tinker@ukonline.co.uk
Thanks for the quality 'bomb proof' shafts Martyn. They work perfectly with Steve's mounts!

Lastly, I'd like to offer special thanks to James Wistanley of Stark Automotive (http://www.stark-automotive.co.uk/elise.html). While I didn't purchase the Stark kit (for K20... not K24), his support during my initial planning was more help than any single person. I'd highly recommend the Stark kit for K20 DIY'ers, as they provide a kit and support that includes everything you'll need to convert your Lotus Rover to Honda.

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The Car: 1999 Elise Sport 190 (Series 1) - Factory Track Prepared - 1,600 lb Aluminum Lightened Chassis

Primary Use: Performance Driving / Track Days

Existing Engine: Rover 1.8L VHPD (est. 175whp)

New Engine: NA Acura TSX 2.4L K24

Performance Goal: 280whp/210ft-lb Tq

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http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/2009%20Mods%20to%20Suspension%20and%20Aero%20Upgra des/2011TSXDesign.jpg
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Why DIY?

Initially, many may think the primary motivation to take a DIY approach is 'cost savings' . For some, that may be. For many others, it's not that at all. In fact, I'm pretty sure I went WAY beyond what it would have cost at a turn-key installation shop.

No, my reasons were different. I wanted to do a conversion to the level of detail & care not traditionally delivered by a third-party installer. Let me qualify that statement by stating that most 'turn-key shops' are more than capable of doing a conversion that way, but might only go to that level of detail and care on their own car, or for someone with a boatload of disposable income.

I chose DIY because simply put... I love my Lotus, and because of that fact, my conversion is/was a labor of love. I took my time and and enjoyed the experience, and as a result my Lotus is unique and a reflection of my passion for the car. Because I chose this path, I now know my Lotus intimately, and this new-found knowledge enables me to better understand potential issues that may arise in the future. No manufacturer's kit is perfect, and issues may arise, be it mechanical and/or electrical. It's nice not to be married to a shop that may not be there a decade from now. Just my humble opinion here, but never believe that a third party install shop will treat your car with the same passion and level of detail that you would.

Lastly, I'm not a mechanic by trade, but rather a sales/marketing desk jockey. I say this because I believe most Lotus owners are not professional mechanics, but have a passion for the car. If you can turn a wrench and read a schematic diagram, you most likely can do this conversion. You may not do it as fast as a shop who does it every day, but if you have patience and take it one step at a time, I believe most can do it just as good (and many of you even better).

Feel free to contact me directly with questions or additional contact information. There may also be other website/forums I can direct you to that might provide additional information and detail.

Good wrenching!!

- Ken

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Video Link to my first laps at Road America

Here's my first few laps at Road America this past July with the Rover engine (just before it blew). Awesome track. Can't wait to go back this next spring! I'll post a comparison video of the new TSX engine once complete.


http://vimeo.com/16341266

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A few months back, I sourced the first component needed... an engine.

K24A2: 2004 Acura TSX

* Displacement: 2,354 cc (143.6 cu in)
* Power: 200 PS (150 kW; 200 hp) @ 6800 rpm
* Torque: 232 N·m (171 lb·ft) @ 4500 rpm
* Bore: 87 mm
* Stroke: 99 mm
* Redline: 7100 RPM

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Acura%20TSX%20K24%20Engine%20Tear%20Down/TSXEngineSm.jpg

Actually, I was quite lucky finding this particular engine. Most 'Frankenstein' hybrid engines (K24 long block with a K20 head) require two separate purchases, but the Acura TSX (2004-06) came factory with the desired combination... Long Block with iVTEC Head (so no need to get the K20 head).

Engine Cost: $1,800. It may not look pretty, but considering nearly all the internals will be replaced, the only things we really wanted were the block and the head. Most everything else goes in the garbage.

Build Strategy: I have a few options here. NA or SC'd. Also, I could also de-stroke the engine to where it will rev to 12.5Krpm, but at the expense of more frequent rebuilds.

Some may be asking... why K24 vs. K20? The simple answer, personal preference. At 1600 lbs, I didn't want to take the fun out of driving the car (SC'd = 325+hp) so I settled on a performance goal of around 275-280whp. Fun... but not insane. I didn't want an engine that was so tweaked, I only got 5K miles out of it. I wanted longevity and reliability as a priority. Second, I prefer a NA aspirated engine, but a NA K20 would really only give me a few HP more than my VHPD. Considering the expense involved in the conversion, I want a little more for my money. A performance built K24 will easily meet that goal.

Since I recently blew the head gasket on my VHPD (at Road America in early July), I figured it's time to officially start the conversion process...

Removed Wheels and Undertrays.

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_3850sm.jpg

Removed Rear Clam.

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_3869sm.jpg

VHPD Engine Exposed

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_3884sm.jpg

Removed Air Intake (Note Oil in Overflow Bottle)

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_3888sm.jpg

MacLotus
11-01-2010, 04:38 PM
Removed Rear Suspension Components and Exhaust

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_3898sm.jpg

Strap-Up Engine Trans Assy

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_3929sm.jpg

Turn Assembly Gently and....

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_3933sm.jpg

VHPD Removed

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_3936sm.jpg

Milestone 1.... Complete.

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_3938sm.jpg

Now let's get this cleaned up and build the engine.

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_3939sm.jpg

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K24 Conversion Strategy: Surprisingly, there is not a ton of difference between a K24A2 (TSX) and a K20A2 (RSX Type S -or- Euro Civic Type R). Aside from the obvious displacement, the only significant physical difference is block height. The K24 'Long Block' is 19mm taller than the K20 block. Since most conversion kit mounts are made to fit a K20, I had to take this into consideration when fitting a K24. Here's a photo taken out of the back of my van when I picked up the K24.

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Acura%20TSX%20K24%20Engine%20Tear%20Down/K24.jpg

In order to better understand the difference in what might be required for the front engine mount, I super-imposed a photo from a K20 to see how it matched up. Notice the chain case bolt-hole pattern is different from the two engines.

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Acura%20TSX%20K24%20Engine%20Tear%20Down/K24toK20Comparison.jpg

MacLotus
11-01-2010, 04:39 PM
Notice the bolt hole pattern difference? Because it's popular to swap the K20A2 (RSX Type S) for the K24 (TSX), I found that there are some custom front engine mounts engineered to adapt the K24 to the K20 engine mounts in the K20 RSX Type S. This one is offered from Club RSX (Aluminum Light Weight).

http://www.clubrsx.com/cr/PRR-P800B.html

If you're looking to save a few dollars, you could also opt for a K24 CRV mount for $30. It basically allows you to bolt directly to the K24 chain case, and adapt to a K20 mount. (pictures to follow).

As for the transmission, you'll need to use a gearbox from a RSX Type S ('02-'04) or the Euro Civic Type R. It bolts directly to the K24 (or K20) with no issues. We'll discuss tranny preparation in the next post.

I want to build a K24 that will provide a bit more power over stock specifications, so step one is dis-assembly of the TSX.

Remove front pulley.

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Acura%20TSX%20K24%20Engine%20Tear%20Down/IMG_3316sm.jpg

Remove Cams and Valve Train Assembly.

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Acura%20TSX%20K24%20Engine%20Tear%20Down/IMG_3318sm.jpg

Chain Case Removed.

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Acura%20TSX%20K24%20Engine%20Tear%20Down/IMG_3317sm.jpg

Cylinder Head Removed.

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Acura%20TSX%20K24%20Engine%20Tear%20Down/IMG_3322sm.jpg

Carbonized Pistons.

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Acura%20TSX%20K24%20Engine%20Tear%20Down/IMG_3324sm.jpg

Cylinder Head.

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Acura%20TSX%20K24%20Engine%20Tear%20Down/IMG_3325sm.jpg

Once teardown was completed, I boxed up the crank, block and head to send to ENDYN Racing in Ft. Worth, TX. Endyn has been building Honda racing engines for 20+ years (working directly with Honda Racing) to get the most performance out of various engines. Their website is http://www.theoldone.com and Endyn's owner (Larry Widmer) is recognized as the one of the best performance machine/build shops on the planet.

After several discussions with Larry, Endyn will build me an engine kit built to extreme performance specifications that I can assemble in my own garage. In short, I don't have to worry about all those bearing tolerances, end gaps, and other techno-guru specs that aren't my specialty. He'll provide me all the parts to assemble a coordinated racing engine, but in a kit form so I can enjoy the build experience in my own garage. Next.... the specs of what I chose to have Endyn build for me.

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Now for a little about the K24 Performance Build...

The Block: Endyn will bore and hone the block to 87.5mm (no need to sleeve) with deck plate. This bores the cylinders properly without ovalizing cylinders (deckplate). Evidently, without the deck plate, cylinders will warp slightly once assembled creating 'out of round' cylinders. The deck plate prevents this from happening. They will also deck the engine block, ensuring proper fit to cylinder head.

They will provide 87.5mm RollerWave pistons (12.5:1) and coat piston skirts (Endyn custom design for the K24). Piston Rings will be installed with proper end gaps to ensure proper fit. Custom Crower MaxiLite Billet Rods (not Brian Crower) are provided with custom fit wrist pins and rod/main bearings fit to within .005 in.

Line Hone Main Bores To Spec
Cometic Head Gasket to 87.5 mm bore (custom)
Fit Rings/Rod Bearings/Main Bearings to Spec

Cylinder Head: Full Racing Performance CNC (Port match to Skunk2 Intake Manifold)
Valve Job, Decking & Assy, Premium Tapered Manganese/Bronze Guides, Hone Fit Valves
New Valve Seats
Black Nitride Coated Flat Face Exhaust Valves
Black Nitride Coated Flat Face Intake Valves (36mm) , +1mm larger
Eibach Valve Springs
Chromoly Retainers
Valve Spring Seats for Dual Springs
Split Locks
Valve Stem Seals

Custom Endyn Stage 2 Camshafts - Sized to provide performance but easy on the Toda chain tensioner.

K20 Oil Pump - CNC Port/Polish and machine work to fit K24.
Fluidampr Harmonic Balancer (K Series)

Additional Parts:

Skunk2 Pro K Series Intake Manifold
Bosch Injector Dynamics ID725cc Injectors
Skunk2 70mm Throttle Body
Custom Exhaust Header/Manifold (local builder TBD)

Engine will ship 8/16/10 and build will start immediately.

While the Rover VHPD won't be rebuilt immediately, I do plan to pack & store all the Sport 190 components I remove for future restoration to factory specs. If I ever decide to sell the car, they'll go with it. I promised myself not to do anything that couldn't be reversed, after all this is one of about 50 Sport 190's (very rare).

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MacLotus
11-01-2010, 04:41 PM
Next, I needed a transmission. In order to make life easier, it made sense to use the same transmission the K20 would use. That way, all the existing mounts/mount kits would work. I sourced a 6 speed transmission from an '04 Acura RSX Type S for $800. This is basically the same transmission found in the '02-05 Euro Civic Type R, but it has a longer final drive gear (4.389FD). Actually, the longer FD gear might be better for the higher torque delivered by the K24 (especially in such a light car).

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_3415sm.jpg

Here's where a major decision had to be made. Which conversion kit/mounts to go with? Since Alan Gourlay has been my mentor from the beginning (Thanks Alan!! You da man!!), my original plan was to follow his Stark build. But after several conversations with my tuner regarding my HP goals, I needed to go with some of the 'higher performance' intake manifolds. The problem was that because the Stark mounts position the engine more forward, these 'higher performance' intake manifolds would most certainly hit the forward bulkhead/firewall. While I could have cut the firewall, I decided that was not the best path (after all, it's a Sport 190).

There was another problem too. Remember the different bolt pattern on the front of the K24 chain case? The Stark front engine mount was designed for the K20, so some serious modification would be needed to make that mount work.

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Acura%20TSX%20K24%20Engine%20Tear%20Down/K24toK20Comparison.jpg

The Link-Up mounts move the engine/trans about an inch further toward the rear of the car, but there will be some 'deeper' cutting of the transmission to adequately clear the rear sub-frame mount on the Lotus. That additional inch opens up a range of 'higher performance' intake manifolds that will most certainly help me reach my power goal. It also straightens out the drive shafts a little more which I'm told reduces heat build-up in the tri-pod joints (plus no need to cut the sub-frame as required for Stark drive shafts). Don't get me wrong... I think the Stark kit and the folks at Stark are 'top shelf'. A GREAT K20 conversion kit. For me, it was about the intake manifold and front engine mount.

Minor Problem: Link-Up mounts are ONLY part of a kit accessible to certified installation shops. Called Geary at EliseParts... no luck. On to PLAN B.

Plan B: Stormin Normin (SELOC) took the Link-Up mount design, made slight improvements through his own experiences, and has a local fabrication shop that makes them up for him at a fraction of the cost ($500). Problem solved.

No so fast... these are just the mounts. Not a kit. What does that mean? No instructions. Little to no support (but a GREAT price). No bolts or associated hardware. Go this route... you're on your own. Not like the professional delivery of Stark's kit and support. But wait, I'm installing a K24. Half of any K20 Conversion Kit I purchase won't work anyway. It was then that I realized I would have to become VERY resourceful for the parts I would need to pull this off.

I ordered the SNS Automotive mounts (Stormin Normin) and they arrived a few weeks later. The bushes were not installed so I dropped them off at the local machine shop and the pressed them in. Tight fit... but they went in nicely. I also had them sandblast them so I could apply a new coat of paint to them.

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4045sm-1.jpg

First things first. I need to cut the corner of the transmission so it will clear the Lotus sub-frame mount. I get an old photo from SNS that indicates where to cut.

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/SNSTransCut.jpg

Pretty straight forward. I grab my trusty hack saw and go to town. (Previously, I was a hand model... but was not 'master of my domain'. I even lost a contest once)

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/TransCut01sm.jpg

I love a perfect cut! Wait... WTF!!!

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/TransCut02sm.jpg

I'm pretty sure that's going to leak some tranny fluid. Wow! It was then I realized... "Welcome to the world of DIY!" Time for a cold beer and some reflection.

The next day, I split the transmission case... rinsed all the shavings/filings out... and headed off to my specialty welder. $40 and he plugged my hole (no comments guys). It was then that I felt... well... resourceful. An unexpected issue pops up... deal with it. Solve the problem.

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_3428sm.jpg

MacLotus
11-01-2010, 04:43 PM
Little bit of paint... and we're back in business. In fact, now I'll have a ton of room.

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_3431sm.jpg

I don't fault SNS. I made the cut without talking to others and getting consensus. A 'teachable moment' as they say. I pretty much get a grin on my face when I think back on my surprise when I did that. :lol:

I re-assembled the transmission and started to fit the new SNS mounts.

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_3437sm.jpg

I'll have to say, the SNS Mounts fit PERFECT. Very precise fabrication. Very happy with them thus far. I had to get resourceful when it came to the linkage assembly sourcing the ball end joints, threaded rod, and stainless steel hardware from http://www.fastenal.com (great source for hardware). The existing shift cables will be reused and will connect directly to the rocker arms.

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/ShiftLinkage01sm.jpg

Linkage works smoothly with no binding. I also installed a new clutch slave cylinder, drive shaft seals, boot and throw-out bearing.

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/ShiftLinkage02sm.jpg

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While I wait for the engine components to arrive from Endyn Racing, I decided I may as well pull the front clam. After all, I'll need to replace the Elise OEM radiator. Why replace the radiator?... I'm glad you asked. :wink:

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_3946sm.jpg

The Acura K Series engines (Honda's too... one and the same) have a cooling system that operates at much higher pressures than the Rover K Series engines do. This increased pressure can blow the pressure plugs out of the OEM radiator, resulting in the loss of your engine coolant.

Notice all the dusty dirt and broken driving light. I took a short cut (or long cut) at 80mph around Turn 3 @ BIR. Woo Hoo!! The dry cleaners are still trying to get the stains out of my racing suit.

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_3948sm.jpg

OEM Radiator Removed.

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_3959sm.jpg

MacLotus
11-01-2010, 04:45 PM
It is highly recommended that the radiator be replaced with a High Pressure Extra Capacity Aluminum Radiator supplied by my friends at Elise-Shop. I opted to install two fans, vs only one in the OE configuration.

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4406sm.jpg

Here is the new radiator installed. I also took the opportunity to replace the two front driving lights. Elise-Shop was kind enough to include plastic light shields that take the brunt of the rock chips incurred on track.

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4407sm.jpg

After siphoning the remaining fuel from the OE 8 gallon tank, I dropped the fuel tank as we'll need to replace the OE in-tank fuel pump. Why? You guessed it... because the Acura K Series engines/injectors like to operate at a higher fuel pressures.

Note: Another option is to leave the OE pump and install a surge tank (a swirl pot) in the engine bay with a secondary pump. Aside from the arguable safety issues created by that approach, I need the engine bay real estate for more critical performance components (i.e. laminova oil cooling system & remote oil filter).

Many take this 'swirl pot' approach because there really hasn't been a quality manufactured in-tank replacement pump solution... until now. Read on...


http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4409sm.jpg

OE in-tank pump removed.

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4415sm.jpg

Here is the newly released high pressure in-tank fuel pump designed to replace the Lotus OE pump. This is actually the first one shipped from Yvo @ Elise-Shop (actually the first prototype). Now there are probably a few folks out there that think this idea is not new (and its not), but what is new is that it is not a hodge-podge assembly of replaced parts on the OE pump, but rather a completely re-designed piece of performance equipment designed (and factory manufactured) specifically for Lotus engine swaps. Elise-Shop now offers many new custom parts to assist DIY customers.

www.elise-shop.com Talk to Yvo. I can't begin to tell you how much help he has been. Thanks Yvo!!

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4412sm.jpg

Comparison to OE pump

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4416sm.jpg

MacLotus
11-01-2010, 04:46 PM
New pump fitted and fuel tank re-installed

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4421sm.jpg

I'm going to need to make room for all the engine components and parts that will arrive this week so a quick trip to Lowes for some wood and I'll box up the OEM Rover 1.8L and 5 spd trans to store in my barn (in case I ever want to restore the car to OEM specs). I kind of felt like I was making a coffin for a dead engine. :cry:

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_3981sm.jpg

The first items to arrive were my OEM Acura drive shafts (RSX Type S) and the kit necessary to convert them for use with the Lotus Elise S1 Hub Carriers/Uprights (appropriate length axles and custom wheel hubs).

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_3972sm.jpg

All that will be used from the new Acura drive shafts is the inner and outer joints/boots. A custom length drive shaft and custom fabricated wheel hub (from a UK supplier) will complete the custom drive shaft assembly.

Notice the size difference between the OEM Lotus Joints and the OEM Acura Joints. Although some kits make use of the Lotus OEM Outer CV joints, it's no wonder they're prone to failure under extreme performance use at much higher HP delivered by the Acura K Series engines.

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_3982sm.jpg

I will have to custom fabricate a speedo sensor bracket to accommodate the larger Acura CV joint... but then who needs a speedometer on the race track? :driving:

So what I need to do is rebuild the drive shaft and fit the new axle.

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4425sm.jpg

There was a slight problem with the custom hubs working properly with Honda CV joint housing, so some additional machine work was necessary. The first problem was that when the Honda spline nut was fitted, the 36mm socket would not fit over the nut without hitting the hub flange (centers the wheel for lugs). The solution was to shave a little off the inside of the flange and turn down the socket a little. Now it works fine (and the flange is still thicker than the OE hub flange).

Second problem was where the Honda CV joint mated up against the inner Lotus wheel bearing. While I could have turned down the Honda CV housing a little, I knew this part would be eventually replaced and I'd have to machine it again. I had my machinist make me a custom stainless steel spacer that sandwiches between the CV joint housing and the Lotus bearing. Should work perfect.

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4431sm.jpg

New drive shafts fully assembled and ready to go...

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4433sm.jpg

MacLotus
11-01-2010, 04:47 PM
Finally.... my engine arrives back from Endyn Racing (Ft. Worth, TX). Woo Hoo!! First thing... a quick inventory of parts. (Man I love it when UPS comes screaming down the street!!)

Machined Block - Deck Block / Line Hone Main Journal / Bored & Hone to 87.5mm (with deck plate)

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_3987sm.jpg

Cylinder Head - Full Race Modifications (this thing is made to FLOW... baby!)

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_3999sm.jpg

Eibach Dual Valve Springs / Chromoly Retainers

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4002sm.jpg

Black Nitride Coated Valves (+1mm Intake Valves with Seats)

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_3996sm.jpg

Open up and say "Ahhhhhh"!

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_3991sm.jpg
http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_3989sm.jpg

Custom Endyn Roller Wave Pistons - 87.5mm 12.5:1 Compression / Coated Skirts

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4021sm.jpg

MacLotus
11-01-2010, 04:47 PM
Custom Crower MaxiLite Billet Connecting Rods (Not to be confused with Brian Crower rods)

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4014sm.jpg

Modified K20 Oil Pump / Port & Polished (note machined area for K24A2 application - more on that during assembly)

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4008sm.jpg

Fluidampr Harmonic Balancer

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4023sm-1.jpg

Toda Chain Tensioner

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4017sm.jpg

Custom Endyn Stage 2 Cams will arrive shortly, but I'm ready to start building this bad boy!

Block shipped with both halves of block together, so the first order of business is removal of the lower block assembly. We'll need to install the crankshaft before we can bolt the block to the engine stand.

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4024sm.jpg

Install the four oil squirters first.

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4026sm.jpg

I had Endyn prefit all bearings and rings to performance specs, so its important to get each bearing in its appropriate journal.

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4028sm.jpg

MacLotus
11-01-2010, 04:48 PM
Once the bearing halves are installed, generously coat each with a thick coat of assembly lube. Don't forget the thrust bearings. :rolleyes:

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4029sm.jpg

Lower the crankshaft 'very carefully' on to the lubricated bearing halves. Then lube the bearing halves on the lower block assembly.

The lower block will require HondaBond gasket sealant, and this stuff dries pretty quick. I suggest before applying the HondaBond, have all your bolts ready to go and your Torque Wrench adjusted for the main caps.

It's important to replace the Main Bearing Cap bolts with brand new ones. You'll also want to use a quality moly lubricant (i.e. ARP) on the threads and between the bolt head and washer. This ensures proper torque is achieved with minimal resistance. So have your ARP moly lube ready as well. Lastly, clean the HondaBond areas with 3M Adhesive Remover to get any oil residue off the mating surfaces.

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4036sm.jpg

Ready... set... go..... Apply the HondaBond to areas as indicated in the engine manual. Smooth out with your finger and assemble the block halves together.

Apply moly lube to the main bolts and torque to specification in the sequence indicated in the engine manual. Once torqued, go back and check them again.

Your not done torquing these yet. Start again in the proper sequence and turn each main bolt an additional 56 degrees (as shown in the manual). Now you can install the remaining bolts around the perimeter of the lower block and torque to spec.

And the crank spins as smooooooth as butter. Let's put it on the engine stand and assemble the pistons, rings and rods.

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4038sm.jpg

Again, since Endyn has already set the ring end gaps and honed the rod journals, we just need to assemble (again per the manual). Exception: The piston pins on the Crower Rods are floating pins, so no need to heat the piston and press in. Just apply a little assembly lube to the wrist pin, install the snap ring, and your good to go. Note: It is important to ascertain if the rods need to face a certain direction. Mine needed the journal tangs toward the exhaust side of the piston, but check with your manufacturer for your application.

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4040sm.jpg

Install your piston rings with end gaps facing angles as indicated in the manual and your ready to install in the cylinders.

Important Note: Invest in Wiseco Tapered Ring Compressor sized for your specific application. These install the pistons effortlessly! The universal 'crank-to-compress' ring compressors are RISKY and can damage your cylinders, rings and pistons pretty easily.

Identify the first cylinder (cylinder 1-4 front to back) and rotate the crankshaft so the journal for that cylinder is at BDC (bottom dead center). This will help ensure the rod bolt don't contact the polished journal and score/scratch it.

Use plenty of assembly lube on the piston, the cylinder, and the tapered ring compressor. Install the bearing on the connecting rod and apply more assembly lube.

Ensure the piston is facing the correct direction (valve indentations aligned with valve sizes). The larger piston indentations (intake valve indentations) should be on the same side of the engine as the intake manifold. The smaller indentations go toward the exhaust side of the engine.

Place the tapered ring compressor on the cylinder (ensuring the piston/rod combination is for that cylinder - they're matched). Lower the piston/rod assembly carefully into the ring compressor. LIGHTLY tap the piston down into the cylinder with the wooden/rubber end of a 'LIGHT' mallet.

Once the rings have cleared the block deck, remove the ring compressor and set aside. Continue lightly tapping the piston toward the bottom of the cylinder. Reach underneath and guide the rod onto the crank journal (preventing the rod bolts from touching the journal surface.

Rotate the engine (bottom up) and install the rod cap (with lubricated bearing half). Install the rod bolts using ARP moly lube. The lube should be used both on the threads and the underside of the bolt cap. This allows for proper pre-load while torquing these bolts (minimal metal to metal resistance for accurate torque readings). Torque to rod manufacturer specifications (which may be different from OE torque specs indicated in the Helms manual).

Repeat process for remaining cylinders. Since I was building this by myself, I couldn't really take photos of each step of that process. Here is the finished installation of pistons/rods. You should be able to turn the crank without binding, but understand it will get more resistant to turn as you install more pistons.

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4070sm.jpg

The next step is to install the oil pump. I've replaced the bulky and heavy K24A2 oil pump with a modified K20A2 oil pump. It had to be modified to work with K24A2. Note the lower block bolts are not flush (as on the K20A2), so they prevent the K20 pump from directly bolting on.

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4075sm.jpg

The solution involves machining some unnecessary aluminum off the K20 oil pump so that it straddles the K24 lower block bolts. Endyn performed this modification and also ported/polished the pump for improved flow.

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4071sm.jpg

MacLotus
11-01-2010, 04:49 PM
A small oil port (used on the OE K24 pump also needs to be plugged to prevent loss of vital oil pressure. Once again, Endyn plugged for me.

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4077sm.jpg

Lastly, I installed a K20A2 baffle (throwing the old K24 baffle in the trash with the K24 pump).

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4080sm.jpg

A new K20A2 oil pump chain and guide must also be replaced (as part of the oil pump conversion). I also opted to replace the chain tensioner as well.

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4086sm.jpg

The next step is installation of the cylinder head. First, I installed the new ARP head studs, finger tight but fully seated. Don't forget the two dowel pins that center the gasket and head precisely over the cylinders (not shown in that photo... but installed).

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4089sm.jpg

Head, valve train, and new Endyn Stage 2 cams installed.

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4090sm.jpg

Installed cam gears and new timing chain / Toda chain tensioner.

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4092sm.jpg

Align arrows on crankshaft. Note dark gray chain link aligned with crank gear dimple mark.

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4094sm.jpg

MacLotus
11-01-2010, 04:51 PM
Align cam gears. Note cam gear marks are aligned and dark gray chain links are aligned with dimples.

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4095sm.jpg

The next step was to install the oil pan with Clockwise Motion oil sump baffle installed. Note that I have opted to use an aluminum K20 oil pan. While I could use the K24 steel oil pan, the sump baffle wouldn't work with that pan. I also had to purchase longer bolts as the aluminum pan has a thicker outside edge than the thin steel pan.

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4084sm.jpg

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4099sm.jpg

Install Chain Case

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4102sm.jpg

Install remaining engine components (new water pump, Fluidampr Harmonic Balancer, etc)

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4110sm.jpg

Skunk2 Pro K Series manifold with Skunk2 70mm Throttle Body, Skunk2 Composite Fuel Rail, and Bosch Injector Dynamics ID725cc Injectors.

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4109sm.jpg

Hoisted the new engine off the build stand so that I could install the Exeedy lightened flywheel, clutch and transmission assembly. I didn't feel the need to go full race on the clutch, as this is not a drag race car that I dump the clutch in. The car also only weighs in at 1600 lbs, nearly half the weight of a factory Acura RSX/TSX. I just need acceleration in the straightaways from 3rd-6th gear. This was a judgment call, so if I underestimated... I'll put another one in. I'm pretty easy on clutches though, as I don't beat on the car that much.

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4437sm.jpg

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4441sm.jpg

MacLotus
11-01-2010, 04:53 PM
I also opted not to install an LSD. I spoke with several Elise owners who had them installed. While most liked them, they felt they were most beneficial for autocross/solo track driving or in 2nd gear turns (hair pins). On faster 3rd-6th gear tracks (long sweeping turns), it didn't seem to provide much benefit (unless you like sliding/drifting). Not a hindrance... just not as much benefit on longer road race tracks. Again... a judgment call. If I have traction issues, I'll re-evaluate.

OK... time to fit the engine in. Since this was going to be like putting a watermelon in your lunchbox, I removed the intake manifold for more room (also not to scratch). I lined the aluminum chassis rails with towels to minimize scratching, and also because I'm installing this by myself... solo.

I removed the gearbox mount (n/s mount) so it would clear the chassis rail mount. Positioning the engine/gearbox at about a 35-45 degree angle (gearbox down), I dropped it in and slowly. I positioned my floor jack under the gearbox and began to use it to level out the engine as it dropped in. Once pretty close to level, I attached the right side/front engine mount (o/s mount). Raising the gearbox up a little more, I reinstalled and connected the gearbox mount to the chassis rail mount. Surprisingly, it went in pretty easily without issue or scratches.

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4476sm.jpg

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4478sm.jpg

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4479sm.jpg

After leveling the engine and adjusting lateral placement, it's time to install the lower anti-rotational mounts included with the SNS mount kit. I also need to do some custom machine work to the front engine mount (not the SNS mount, but the OE Lotus mount/spacer it bolts to). Just shave a little aluminum off to make the engine sit perfectly level.

The next step was to re-install the rear Lotus subframe, a structural component attached to rear chassis rails that provides attachment for the rear suspension components. I also took this opportunity to replace the ball joints. The Nylatron bushings are still pretty new as this car only has about 5k miles on it.

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4504sm.jpg

The new 'shorter' drive shaft assembly has been fitted. Fits perfect! Note the distance between the axle and the sub-frame (approximately 8-10mm / 1/4 - 5/16"). Some of the other kits place the engine about an inch (50mm) further forward, so some sub-frame cutting/grinding is required to make room for the more extreme angle of the axle. This increased angle can cause a little more heat build-up in the joints (due to increased friction). According to some, this is not a huge issue for street use, but under extreme track conditions it could be a potential problem.

This of course will not be an issue with the SNS Automotive Mounts and Martyn Tinker drive shafts. They installed flawlessly without issue.

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4505sm.jpg

Another angle...

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4507sm.jpg

After properly torquing suspension components, the brake disc and caliper is re-installed.

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4512sm.jpg

MacLotus
11-01-2010, 04:54 PM
After modifying the right lower A-frame (moved the cross-member out 2" or 50mm) to clear the front of the K20 aluminum oil pan, I re-installed the right-side suspension components. Drive shafts spin smoothly and tight without resistance. Filled the transmission with two quarts of Redline MTL. No leaks... good to go.

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4515sm.jpg

Important Note: It is important to let the new drive shaft joints break-in for 1,000 miles or so before subjecting them to extreme stress and temperatures. New joints are tight and the increased angles in a Lotus mid-engine configuration don't help.

The next step is to get the car into the shop for custom exhaust header fabrication. The shop I've selected will also build some custom sheet metal in the engine bay for mounting engine peripheral components (i.e. Catch Can, Laminova Oil Cooler, Remote Canton Oil Filter, & Fuel Pressure Regulator and Filter).

Since the car won't fit into their schedule for a couple weeks, I'll take this opportunity to finalize the integration of the K20/24 engine wire harness into the Lotus electrical system (via a new Acura PRB ECU with Hondata K-Pro). I sourced a new female E connector and male C101 connector with new pins.

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_3910sm.jpg

Alan Gourlay graciously shared his conversion schematic diagrams with me that clearly showed all the modifications necessary. After installing pigtail wires on the new connectors, I made the proper connections to the Lotus electrical system. Thanks Alan! His drawings were extremely helpful (and necessary), as this can be probably the biggest challenge of the conversion..

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_3914sm.jpg

Though it's a little difficult to see, you can see that I've temporarily hung the ECU (and other associated electrical) from the left sub-frame support. These will mount to an aluminum panel that will be custom fabricated at the performance shop. I'll take close-ups of that once completed. On the inside of the custom panel will set the fuel pressure regulator. Electrical conversion is pretty much complete.

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4516sm.jpg

From this angle you can see that I've temporarily suspended the Lotus after-market stainless steel exhaust system so that the header fabricator can build to it, maintaining the original look of the car's exhaust from the rear. I had to temporarily suspend it with a fiberglass rod because it's normally mounted to the rear clam body assembly.

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4522sm.jpg

Here you can see that I've started the plumbing phase. Note the Mocal Oil Take-Off sandwich plate and 8AN stainless steel braided hose. These will feed into the remote Canton oil filter (replaceable cartridge type) and Mocal Laminova Water-fed Oil Cooler on the rear deck (after some custom sheet metal of course).

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4526sm.jpg

For those interested, here is a close-up of the adapted Lotus/Acura engine mount (using the SNS custom adapter mount). Used a OE Honda CRV chain case engine mount to adapt the SNS K20 mount to the K24 chain case.

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4520sm.jpg

MacLotus
11-01-2010, 04:54 PM
Here you can see why an RBC manifold simply won't work very well on a Lotus application. The RBC sits 1/2" further off the head than the Skunk2 Pro K-Series manifold (10"). While a little hard to see, it's less than 1/4" off the firewall, but the firewall has a good 1/2" of spongy rubber on it so contact due to a little torque rotation won't be an issue.

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4521sm.jpg

Next stop... header fabrication shop... then the sheet metal shop.

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4518sm.jpg

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4524sm.jpg

Found a six-speed gear knob for the Honda S2000... and it's even my favorite color... Yellow. I will nee to change that aluminum shift gate though since this is no longer a five speed.

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4528sm.jpg

Trailered the car over to Full Blown Motorsports in Apple Valley, MN. www.fullblownmotorsports.net

They specialize in custom fabrication manifolds and turbo set-ups. Although I'm going normally aspirated, their reputation for custom design & quality fabrication is unmatched.

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4545sm.jpg

Their shop area was most impressive and the stable of performance cars reassured me I was definitely in the right place. LJ was great and made room for the car immediately, helping me keep on schedule. Thanks LJ!!

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4535sm.jpg

MacLotus
11-01-2010, 04:55 PM
While I dropped the car off a couple days ago, you can see that Chuck didn't waste any time getting started on both exhaust header and cold air intake manifold.

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4531sm.jpg

While many exhaust manifolds will drop straight down (preserving the boot/trunk space), our design flows over the top for less restriction, critical on a normally aspirated engines. It also keeps the manifold heat away from tripod/cv joint boots, which can be a real issue on the track.

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4532sm.jpg

The plan is to split the rear boot area equally, with custom heat shielding in between the header on the right and the cold air intake area on the left (along with laminova oil cooler and remote oil filter).

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4533sm.jpg

Stay tuned... Mac out

KrazyKarl
11-01-2010, 04:58 PM
Sweet project, thanks for sharing!

pachood
11-01-2010, 05:03 PM
Im glad you moved this over here where people are going to appreciate it.

As I have already mentioned, Im loving this. Your detail in pictures and text is great.

How do you break in a track motor in a non street legal care? Will it get some time on the dyno or something?
Its going to be pretty painful getting this car finished, then putting it into storage!

-stephan

MacLotus
11-01-2010, 05:06 PM
I'll just have to spend 2-3 days just doing 500 laps.

ada///M
11-01-2010, 05:07 PM
omg.... where is the "Likes this" button? Takes me back to my honda boi days, seriously amazing project.

JCN
11-01-2010, 05:26 PM
So that's where you've been this year!

Congrats on your build! Seriously fantastic R&D. It should be amazing when completed!

Teddy.B
11-01-2010, 05:35 PM
Awesome!

washburn
11-01-2010, 06:07 PM
Any man who carpets his garage is my hero!!! Thanks for the fantastic thread....I'm loving this!!! You do quality work and sweat the details....very nice to see.

MacLotus
11-01-2010, 07:28 PM
Thanks for the compliments guys. I'm happy to share my experience with you all, as it's been a ton of fun.

Andrew
11-01-2010, 08:11 PM
I was wondering where you had been this year... Now I know! :lol:

Nice project!

oldtoyota
11-02-2010, 08:30 AM
Congrats! Amazing build. There is something special about doing it yourself that you can't put a price on.

aansorge
11-02-2010, 09:47 AM
That's quite a post...

stoooo
11-02-2010, 10:05 AM
I'll just have to spend 2-3 days just doing 500 laps.

It's good to hear you're willing to make such a sacrifice :p

Great story.

Stuart.

MacLotus
11-02-2010, 10:13 AM
It's good to hear you're willing to make such a sacrifice :p

Great story.

Stuart.

You have no idea how hard it will be for me to keep my foot out of it for that long (on a race track). :oops:

murph
11-02-2010, 12:06 PM
I also opted not to install an LSD. I spoke with several Elise owners who had them installed. While most liked them, they felt they were most beneficial for autocross/solo track driving or in 2nd gear turns (hair pins). On faster 3rd-6th gear tracks (long sweeping turns), it didn't seem to provide much benefit (unless you like sliding/drifting). Not a hindrance... just not as much benefit on longer road race tracks. Again... a judgment call. If I have traction issues, I'll re-evaluate.

I agree, I never found the lack of LSD to be an issue at BIR when I ran there without one, even on my gigantic, squishy, leany 330 in stock form.

Awesome build, gorgeous garage, and awesome documentation of the process! Very fun to read about. =]

MacLotus
11-03-2010, 04:52 PM
Finished Welding

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4549sm.jpg

We put the clam shell back on to check fitment and measure for all the custom sheet metal aluminum that will compartmentalize the engine bay (heat/cooling management).

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4552sm.jpg

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4556sm.jpg

Stay tuned... Mac out

MacLotus
11-05-2010, 04:59 PM
Early look at strategy to effectively manage heat ventilation and cold air zone compartment (for air intake, laminova oil cooler, and remote oil filter).

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/EngineHeatManagement.jpg

We'll vent engine bay heat from here (via o/s air scoop/vent).

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/LotusEliseS1Sport190002.jpg

Stay tuned... Mac out

Shane86
11-05-2010, 05:17 PM
Wow... looks like your going to have this whole thing wrapped up just in time for the snow to fly. :(

Chippy569
11-05-2010, 05:22 PM
badassery to 11. Wow, dude.


Can you make me camber plates? :P

engifineer
11-06-2010, 10:48 AM
This build definitely goes to 11 ...

JCN
11-06-2010, 01:03 PM
Would this be legal for XP? Seems like it would have a good power to weight ratio and a slim profile....

MacLotus
11-06-2010, 01:31 PM
Not an American USDM production car. Was Class D Modified because of that single issue. Now it has a 2.4L so its ineligible for D. Maybe C Mod??

phile
11-08-2010, 09:05 AM
Not an American USDM production car. Was Class D Modified because of that single issue. Now it has a 2.4L so its ineligible for D. Maybe C Mod??

As I recall, C-Mod is for Formula Ford and S-2000 cars.

Your car, if legal for D-Mod (it technically never was), would move to E-Mod with an engine larger than 2000cc. The rules are so wide open in EM that your car is functionally indistinguishable from a car which started as a proper USA Series 2 Elise.

In practical terms, nobody locally would ever protest your car in EM. Ever.

At Nationals, the car would not survive a protest in EM

Go to
http://www.scca.com/documents/Solo_Rules/2010_scca_solo_rules.pdf

18.1 MODIFIED PRODUCTION-BASED CARS
A. Eligibility
Classes DM and EM contain production-based cars which are permitted
additional modifications beyond those allowed in Prepared
classes CP through GP. Models must meet the requirements of Section
13 (first paragraph), be specifically listed in Appendix A, meet
the specifications below, or be otherwise recognized by the SEB.

1. Kit Cars
Kit cars, which were originally designed, constructed, and licensable
for street use, may participate in DM and EM if they are approved
by the SEB. Members desiring approval of a particular kit
car should provide the SEB with detailed information regarding
the kit model and contact info, if available, for the OE manufacturer.
[...]


2. Clones
Clones/replicas of SCCA-recognized production cars are permitted
to compete in DM and EM, provided they comply with the following
requirements:
a) They are substantially similar to and recognizable as the ‘original’
manufactured vehicle on which they are based.
b) Their specifications do not violate any rule stated herein.

3. Other Models
The Panoz Roadster is eligible for competition in DM and EM as a
modified production-based car



13. STOCK CATEGORY
Cars running in Stock Category must have been series produced with
normal road touring equipment capable of being licensed for normal
road use in the United States, and normally sold and delivered through
the manufacturer’s retail sales outlets in the United States. Car models
not specifically listed in any Stock Category class must have been produced,
and must meet the above requirements and been sold through
normal U.S. dealerships, in quantities of at least 1,000 in a 12-month
period in order to be eligible for the Stock Category.

oldtoyota
11-08-2010, 09:22 AM
I was also thinking EM. Not sure if they mix open wheel cars with others.

On another not. Power to Weight is better then a F500 (assuming 600lbs and 84hp) car and a hair better then a C6 Zo6 in SS.

MacLotus
11-08-2010, 09:47 AM
Just curious as to the reason why the car technically never met D-Mod requirements? It was rather difficult for me to class the car. IMHO, the car should have been running against other Elise/Exige's in stock or prepared class (as it was no more modified than an Exige)

Should be around .185 for p/w ratio.

Here's some others...

2004 WRX Turbo (230hp) - .082
...1999 Lotus Sport 190 (mine before) - .118
2010 997 Porsche Turbo (500Hp) - .143
2004 WRX Built to 450Hp - .160
Mercedes-Benz SLR McLaren - .164
Ferrari 599 GTB Fiorano - .166
2010 Porsche GT2 (530Hp) - .167
Lamborghini Murcielago - .172
Porsche Carerra GT - .198
Bugatti Veyron - .240
Saleen S7 - .254

phile
11-08-2010, 09:58 AM
Just curious as to the reason why the car technically never met D-Mod requirements? It was rather difficult for me to class the car. IMHO, the car should have been running against other Elise/Exige's in stock or prepared class (as it was no more modified than an Exige)


If you follow the bread crumbs through SCCA's quirky rule book, you will come to this part:

"must have been series produced with
normal road touring equipment capable of being licensed for normal
road use in the United States, and normally sold and delivered through
the manufacturer’s retail sales outlets in the United States."

MacLotus
11-08-2010, 11:35 AM
If you follow the bread crumbs through SCCA's quirky rule book, you will come to this part:

"must have been series produced with
normal road touring equipment capable of being licensed for normal
road use in the United States, and normally sold and delivered through
the manufacturer’s retail sales outlets in the United States."


Looked through the Modified section and still couldn't find that (found it under Stock and Prepared). If that's the case, then truly there is no eligible category for this car???? Hmmmm....

phile
11-08-2010, 11:51 AM
Looked through the Modified section and still couldn't find that (found it under Stock and Prepared). If that's the case, then truly there is no eligible category for this car???? Hmmmm....

What part of
"must meet the requirements of Section13 (first paragraph)"
don't you understand?

When I said "follow the breadcrumbs", I was not kidding. There are a lot twists and turns in the SCCA rulebook.

All of that said, your car logically makes sense in EM and there is nobody locally who would protest it. When you were in DM, we were happy to have you there.

I'm just saying that if you were to go to any big SCCA event and someone in EM wanted you out of the way, his protest would be successful and your car would be disqualified.

I suppose that the correct SCCA class could be BM, but I'm not following up on it.

"Is that right?" - Garrison Kiellor
"No, but it's so." - Red Maddock

18.1 MODIFIED PRODUCTION-BASED CARS
A. Eligibility
Classes DM and EM contain production-based cars which are permitted
additional modifications beyond those allowed in Prepared
classes CP through GP. Models must meet the requirements of Section
13 (first paragraph), be specifically listed in Appendix A, meet
the specifications below, or be otherwise recognized by the SEB.

13. STOCK CATEGORY
Cars running in Stock Category must have been series produced with
normal road touring equipment capable of being licensed for normal
road use in the United States, and normally sold and delivered through
the manufacturer’s retail sales outlets in the United States. Car models
not specifically listed in any Stock Category class must have been produced,
and must meet the above requirements and been sold through
normal U.S. dealerships, in quantities of at least 1,000 in a 12-month
period in order to be eligible for the Stock Category.

MacLotus
11-08-2010, 12:53 PM
What part of
"must meet the requirements of Section13 (first paragraph)"
don't you understand?

Actually Phil, I believe that reads "Models must meet the requirements of Section 13 (first paragraph), be specifically listed in Appendix A, or be otherwise recognized by the SEB."

Appendix A - D Modified lists...

Lotus
Elise, Exige N/A (’96+)

What don't I understand??

phile
11-08-2010, 01:14 PM
Actually Phil, I believe that reads "Models must meet the requirements of Section 13 (first paragraph), be specifically listed in Appendix A, or be otherwise recognized by the SEB."

Appendix A - D Modified lists...

Lotus
Elise, Exige N/A (’96+)

What don't I understand??

I'm sorry, I can't find that in Appendix A. Do you have a page number?

Shane86
11-08-2010, 02:16 PM
I'm sorry, I can't find that in Appendix A. Do you have a page number?

Pg. 205 in the 2010 rule book
it's listed under FP actually.



Lotus
Elise & Exige (normally-aspirated) (1996-2010)
And by my read, and general knowlege of the rules... as long as this car weighs over 1900 lbs... it's fully legal for FP

MacLotus
11-08-2010, 03:22 PM
I'm not exactly sure why I read DM vs. FP, but yes that's where it came from. The logic to bump my car to DM came from this...

18.1 MODIFIED PRODUCTION-BASED CARS

Classes DM and EM contain production-based cars which are permitted
additional modifications beyond those allowed in Prepared
classes CP through GP. Models must meet the requirements of Section
13 (first paragraph), be specifically listed in Appendix A, or be
otherwise recognized by the SEB.

The keywords 'additional modifications beyond those allowed in Prepared classes CP through GP.' (which would include FP). The Sport 190 was modified/lightened to 1600lbs so didn't meet the 1900 lb weight requirement of that class, but did meet the weight requirements of D Modified. Is that logical.

I know were splitting hairs here, and while I'm not terribly concerned... I would like to know what class it fit in (before the engine swap) without question. DM... correct (unless weight was added to get to 1900 lbs.)... then FP.

Shane86
11-08-2010, 04:03 PM
Okay, i'm going to throw this out, and i may be HORRIBLY wrong... but here goes. You kind of have to read this stuff in stages.

A. Eligibility
Classes DM and EM contain production-based cars which are permitted additional modifi cations beyond those allowed in Prepared classes CP through GP.
Reading just this would lead me to belive that cars legal in CP-GP would be legal in D/E Mod as long as they comply with all other Mod rules

Models must meet the requirements of Section 13 (first paragraph), be specifi cally listed in Appendix A, meet the specifi cations below,
this instantly contradicts this thought by specifically quoting sect 13, which as phil points out, means cars have to have us distribution.

or be otherwise recognized by the SEB.
This is where it again meets grey area, as the lotus you speak of is recognized by the SEB under FP. but, i'm not sure if it pretains to recognition specicifically for mod classes or recognition in general

MNBiker will be much better to ask about this stuff, as he is actually the Prepared Advisory Committee (PAC) chair and helps write these confusing things.

phile
11-08-2010, 05:24 PM
I think you are in. I didn't know that SCCA had recognized Elise Series 1 cars ANYwhere, but there it is.

"be specifically listed in Appendix A"

The FP listing IS part of Appendix A

Your car is not legal for FP because of the motor swap, but its inclusion there gets the car in the door as an approved car.

XP is like "Modified Heavy", so you are in with the swap. I don't think it's a good fit, though, as adding weight to a Lotus is just wrong (part of the reason I sold the Europa).

EM. You bet. I'd get a letter from the SEB before entering Nationals, but I think the FP listing does the trick.

Whaddya think, Steve G?

MacLotus
11-08-2010, 06:38 PM
I read this as having to meet one of the three criteria... not all three. It meets Appendix A as its listed (as Phil said).

Models must meet the requirements of Section 13 (first paragraph), be specifically listed in Appendix A, or be otherwise recognized by the SEB.

FYI... I didn't add weight... just 125whp via 2.4L upgrade. Car is expected to be around 1700lbs now + 190lbs for my fat ass. ;o) We'll know for sure after it's re-corner-balanced.

Shane86
11-08-2010, 06:47 PM
I'm with Phil... XP seems to be the place for your car.
the math real quick says your car will need to make minimum weight of 1728 after your engine swap, without you in it :)

MacLotus
11-23-2010, 04:03 PM
Just got back from vacation in Key West and I'll have to say, Full Blown has done an incredible job.

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4569sm.jpg

The custom fabricated exhaust header has been ceramic coated & powder coated to satin black. The ceramic coating reduces radiated heat by 70% (no need for exhaust header wrap).

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4559sm.jpg

From this angle, you can see a custom sheet metal baffle that funnels hot air down and out the back of the car. Full Blown also added a signature plate to their custom work. Great job guys!!

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4568sm.jpg

In addition to the ceramic coating, I'll add some heat barrier on the exterior of the cool air box to minimize heat transduction. I decided to leave the custom Cold Air Intake a natural brushed aluminum.

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4558sm.jpg

Here you can see the remote oil filter, laminova cooler, and K&N dual air filter system inside the cool zone. Once I get the car back to my garage next week, I'll start the final plumbing.

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4560sm.jpg

Here you can see the custom sheet metal mounting plate. While you can see the oil catch can, header/expansion tank and fuel pump regulator, you can't see the Hondata ECU and other associated electrics mounted on the opposite side. Once the clam is back off, I'll take a couple pictures.

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4566sm.jpg

A little more close-up of the K-Tuned FPR & Canton's Aluminum Expansion Tank and Oil Catch Can (powder coated in black satin).

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4570sm.jpg

Stay tuned... Mac out

oldtoyota
11-24-2010, 08:43 AM
Awesome. Congrats. That thing almost looks to nice to drive at this time. Stressing almost.

MacLotus
01-03-2011, 02:28 PM
After trailering the car back to my home garage, I removed the rear clam to begin tidying things up a bit and finishing off the plumbing (fuel, oil cooling, coolant hoses). One thing I did take immediate note of was the custom milwork Full Blown Motorsports did on my left rear wheel speed sensor (speedometer signal). If you recall, the outer CV joints are now Acura (with a larger diameter/speedo ring), so modification was necessary to reposition the sensor.

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4622sm.jpg

Chuck shaved a little off and drilled/tapped a new mounting point. Should work great, although I'm not sure how accurate it will be. Not to worry though, I'm installing a Traqmate GPS data logger as part of this conversion, which will track exact speed for comparison.

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4625sm.jpg

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4623sm.jpg

Next I removed the 'cool zone' box to mount the Mocal Laminova Oil Cooler, Remote Oil Filter, and Oil Pressure Sender. Note that Chuck welded in aluminum sleeves for the radiator return coolant to the oil cooler.

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4626sm.jpg

I ordered some 3/32" Neoprene rubber to contact cement to the bottom of the 'cool zone' box and other aluminum panels to ensure minimized rattling. In effect, its a rubber gasket sandwiched in between metal to metal surfaces. I also installed some heat shielding around the box.

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4628sm.jpg

After installing all the new custom Samco silicone hoses and stainless steel braid, I reinstalled the box. Note the custom sheet metal below. Looks really clean. Great job Chuck/Full Blown!

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4633sm.jpg

Here you can see where we mounted the ECU, Power J-Box, Lotus MFRU to the backside of the custom panel. These are easily accessed by removing the left rear wheel and wheel liner.

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4637sm.jpg

From another angle, you can see heat shield I installed on the outside of the 'cool zone' box, as well as the grommeted holes for the oil lines to pass through.

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4634sm.jpg

Stay tuned... Mac out

MacLotus
01-03-2011, 02:28 PM
I'm pretty much wrapped up with the exception of a couple additional hoses on order (7-8 week lead time on the custom yellow silicone hose). I'm not quite sure why the silicone looks washed out in the photos, but on the car it looks really nice.

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4631sm.jpg

I really like the red aluminum hose clamps for the valve cover / oil catch can.

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4639sm.jpg

Now it's time to start installing the GPS Trackmate Data Logger & HD Camera System. It will monitor a lot of sensors on the engine (RPM, Brake, TPS, Oil Temp, Oil Pressure, etc). All the data will overlay on top of the edited video. I also plan to hard wire a microphone in the engine bay (for the video).

111R
01-03-2011, 04:34 PM
I also plan to hard wire a microphone in the engine bay (for the video).

Also wire a microphone in the driver's compartment so we can hear the death-scream when you really get that thing cookin' at the track...:rockon

Very clean install. Nice.

MNbiker
01-03-2011, 04:45 PM
I think you are in. I didn't know that SCCA had recognized Elise Series 1 cars ANYwhere, but there it is.

"be specifically listed in Appendix A"

The FP listing IS part of Appendix A

Your car is not legal for FP because of the motor swap, but its inclusion there gets the car in the door as an approved car.

XP is like "Modified Heavy", so you are in with the swap. I don't think it's a good fit, though, as adding weight to a Lotus is just wrong (part of the reason I sold the Europa).

EM. You bet. I'd get a letter from the SEB before entering Nationals, but I think the FP listing does the trick.

Whaddya think, Steve G?
There will likely be a clarification published soon that bans the S1 Elise from Prepared. The current FP listing is incorrect, as there was never an intent to allow cars not licensed for sale in the US to run in FP. Assuming this clarification goes through, the S1 Elise will not be legal for XP.

Please note - even if the SEB determines that a rule change is required to ban the S1 from Prepared, I can tell you it's VERY likely to happen. The PAC has some serious concerns about someone building an XP-killer using a very rare S1 track model Elise

the tick
01-03-2011, 08:01 PM
This is one really cool project, and one of the cleanest I've seen this side of a magazine!

I do have one question related to the "cool zone", by welding the coolant fitting into the alum plate aren't you now "heating" the heat barrier?


Next I removed the 'cool zone' box to mount the Mocal Laminova Oil Cooler, Remote Oil Filter, and Oil Pressure Sender. Note that Chuck welded in aluminum sleeves for the radiator return coolant to the oil cooler.

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4626sm.jpg

Stay tuned... Mac out

MacLotus
01-03-2011, 08:28 PM
Those fittings are post radiator coolant, and yes the walls of the cool zone box will warm from both engine heat and the coolant hose joiners. It's not perfect but the alternative is placing the filter intake in the same compartment as the engine (typical) without a cool zone. The key for this is air movement through box via the side intake scoop. If you think about it... the remote filter an oil cooler are also mini-heat-radiators too. Not perfect, but better than traditional designs.

MNbiker
01-03-2011, 11:12 PM
Some insulation on the outside of the cool box would be a good idea as well, given the proximity of the header.

-Steve

p.s. Very nice looking build! :rockon

MNbiker
01-03-2011, 11:20 PM
I'm just saying that if you were to go to any big SCCA event and someone in EM wanted you out of the way, his protest would be successful and your car would be disqualified.

Actually, if it weren't for the wing, the car might be legal for E Mod. The DM/EM rules on "clones" are liberal enough that you might be able to claim it as an S2 Elise clone. Del Long's latest E Mod project is a "Jeep", built around a circle track tube frame chassis.

Locally, I don't see an issue with running in E Mod.

phile
01-03-2011, 11:20 PM
I forget. Are you putting in a hinge so you can open the rear clamshell at will? I've seen these, and for a setup as modified as this, I'd go there.

MacLotus
01-04-2011, 04:53 AM
Some insulation on the outside of the cool box would be a good idea as well, given the proximity of the header.

-Steve

p.s. Very nice looking build! :rockon

Thanks Steve,

Reflective heat barrier was installed on the outside of the box and the headers were ceramic coated reducing more than 50% of radiated heat. Cold air ducting from the side scoop feeds the box and exits through the wire mesh in the engine lid.

MacLotus
01-04-2011, 05:15 AM
Actually, if it weren't for the wing, the car might be legal for E Mod. The DM/EM rules on "clones" are liberal enough that you might be able to claim it as an S2 Elise clone. Del Long's latest E Mod project is a "Jeep", built around a circle track tube frame chassis.

Locally, I don't see an issue with running in E Mod.

It's funny you mention that. Many Elise S1's were shipped and sold in the US as rollers (without an engine). The Rover engine didn't meet fed emission standards. Most received Acura K20 engines and were classified as a kit-car allowing them to be titled and licensed. I know of two here in the state that did just that.

While I didn't spend a lot of time reading the detail of the 2011 rules, EM was my first thought regarding class. As a side note, I've primarily configured the car for HPDE at BIR and Road America (high speed road racing).

I'd sure like to see some of the great people in MAC up at BIR for a couple MAC Track Days (renting the short course).

Ken

Oh... Phil, I decided not to hinge the clam do to added weight, real estate requirements, and other fitment issues... Plus I'm told they get floppy at 140mph. There's only 10 bolts and it pops off. Heck... I have to take off the aluminum under trays just to change the oil... and that's 10 bolts too. After you've done it a few times, you get pretty proficient.

Cheers!

MacLotus
01-04-2011, 05:17 AM
On another note... Steve, is that a new ride in your stable?

phile
01-04-2011, 12:10 PM
I have to take off the aluminum under trays just to change the oil... and that's 10 bolts too. After you've done it a few times, you get pretty proficient.
Cheers!

I know that drill. I'm pretty sure that mine are more than ten in number. Two large ones and a whole flock of smaller ones. The are well-made, though. Real machine screws instead of the cheap sheetmetal screws holding in the plastic tray on my Miata.

MacLotus
01-04-2011, 12:18 PM
I know that drill. I'm pretty sure that mine are more than ten in number. Two large ones and a whole flock of smaller ones. The are well-made, though. Real machine screws instead of the cheap sheetmetal screws holding in the plastic tray on my Miata.

See... you've been there Phil! I just got me a small 90 degree air ratchet and it zips'em all right off!:)

MacLotus
01-05-2011, 07:59 AM
For those of you interested, the finished project will be on display at the Mall of America rotunda on April 23rd. Brainerd International Raceway's Performance Driving School will be hosting the event with a LOT of cool track cars, so please stop by and say hello.

I spoke with Gary Curtis, BIR Driving School Director about the possibility of a couple MAC events up there each summer and he loved it! He indicated high speed driving skills will also make you even better on the autocross track. Significant discounts if enough interest is there? Remember, you'll get 6-7 hours of seat time vs. 6-7 minutes, and no need to work the track. It's all driving with a group of professional instructors willing to ride with you if you like. I'll be planning to run the car up at BIR May 3rd & 23rd (break-in), so come on up and get out on the track with me. I'll have more info at the MOA event. Hope to see you there.

Ken

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/BIR%20Performance%20Driving%20School%20at%20Mall%2 0of%20America/MOA03.jpg

Duke
01-17-2011, 01:27 AM
Wow this is a great a build! I admire the time and the work you've put into this!

MacLotus
02-11-2011, 10:12 AM
Pulled the driver's seat to gain access to the area where I wanted to mount the Traqmate Sensor Unit with HD Data Module for HD Camera Control from dash and various digital/analog engine inputs (i.e. RPM). I also permanently wired a camera power supply so I don't have to worry about camera battery power.

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4657sm.jpg

I also installed a Shift-i progressive shift light system that is fully programmable. The green LED's start at the beginning of the powerband slowly building through amber... then red... for optimum gear management assistance through peripheral vision.

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4698sm.jpg

Here's the remote Traqmate Display Unit mounted to the dash. It's backlit and allows selection of drivers, tracks, camera control, as well as real time display of engine sensors, speed, gear, rpm and lap times. All data is stored and downloaded to my laptop from here (USB Port on the side).

Some may be wondering what the two bullet lights are on top of the instrument stack binnacle? These were installed by the car's previous owner. I had planned to remove them and replace the plastic binnacle with a new one (without holes in the top) until I learned a new binnacle is $250. Maybe they don't look so bad after all? I wired the left amber light to the Hondata ECU MIL light output (malfunction indicator) and the red right light (which was the old shift light) is now an over-rev warning lamp (maybe 7800 rpm).

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4695sm.jpg

Finally the last of the silicone hoses arrived and I completed the last of the engine plumbing. That means the project is pretty much complete with regard to the swap/installation phase.

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4725sm.jpg

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4726sm.jpg

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4730sm.jpg

After filling with oil and coolant, I wanted to d a few tests prior to first start. The first test was a complete check of the electrical system, after all there were a lot of modifications made to the Acura loom and the lotus chassis wiring system.

Power on... turn key.... ECU MIL light on... then extinguishes. Good, the ECU likes what it sees. Fuel Pump fires up... 40+psi on the FPR gauge. I pulled the ignition connectors off the coil packs to cycle the engine to check for good oil pressure. Turn it over... slower at first... then after a few turns the engine momentum picks up speed (after good lubrication). Oil light goes out and oil pressure gauge needle shows good pressure.

The next step, checking the ECU for firmware version/update and base map upload. LJ with FullBlown Motorsports was kind enough to come over and assist with first start. After updating the ECU Hondata firmware, he input the injector tables and uploaded the base map. Looks good!

The time has come for first start... and video tells it better than words... right!! Woo Hoo!!


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M8nz9aVR5LM

Stay tuned... Mac out

Chippy569
02-11-2011, 10:27 AM
Coolant leak... time to check that head gasket?

MacLotus
02-11-2011, 10:54 AM
Head gasket? What's a head gasket??

speedyham
02-11-2011, 11:53 AM
NOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!!

That sucks. Hopefully it's just a headgasket and not something bigger.

Keep us up to date.

MacLotus
02-11-2011, 06:07 PM
OK... obviously a major malfunction. Evidently, there is supposed to be a gasket that goes in between Head and Block... and the bathtub caulking I used did not hold. A teachable moment. :lol:

Just kidding.... a little humor to lighten the moment. At first I thought the problem might be coolant from the intake manifold, but after LJ and I pulled the manifold, we put a little pressure on the coolant system by blowing air into the header tank. Here is the problem area shown in this video...


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LIXw3tczg-8

According to Endyn, there's apparently considerable porosity in (some) the TSX castings that isn't present in the K20A2's and Z3 castings. Endyn has done quite a number of the TSX heads over the last three years using the same program they used on mine. Many of the heads went to Honda R&D too. No problems with any of them.

Endyn immediately ran the program on another replacement TSX head they had and there were no leaks at 50PSI, but at 80PSI, it looked like a sprinkler! They sectioned the head (as they will with my returned head) and the wall thickness was still .090", and you couldn't see porosity with the naked eye, but were able to detect some when magnified.

They've recently had some new heads from Honda that had slivers of steel that became exposed when the heads were machined. Looked like steel thread popping out of the castings...so the quality that made Honda famous may not be what it used to.

At any rate, Larry at Endyn has been awesome and I can tell he takes this issue seriously. "We guarantee the quality of everything we sell Ken, and our warranty covers everything, including complete engines we build, break-in and tune on our dyno. Break it and we'll pay to get it back, fix or replace, and return shipment on us. This is the way I'd like to be treated, and our customers feel the same way. We use only the best parts and we have complete control over all of the machine work, because all of it is done in-house on the finest equipment money can buy. By the way, your new Z3 head was pressure tested to 100PSI with no leaks. I think you'll realize another 15hp with this head over the TSX due to the larger port volume, so you should really feel the difference."

I'm certainly bummed that I have to completely remove the engine to fix the problem, but I'm also glad I'm not dealing with a machine shop saying 'That's not our problem.' Endyn has really stepped up in my eyes. True professionals and highly recommended.

So here we are... pretty much disassembled and ready for the new head that should arrive early next week... even with a brand new Cometic Head Gasket. Thanks Endyn! (now I don't have to go buy more bathtub caulking).

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4747sm.jpg

At least I still have plenty of time before we put it on the dyno for spring track preparation! :rockon

Stay tuned... Mac out

JCN
02-11-2011, 07:17 PM
Oh, the joy of custom building. Glad you're keeping it in perspective!

MacLotus
02-21-2011, 04:38 PM
--------------------------------------------------------------

Just received the new fully ported Z3 RBC head which has better flow characteristics than the TSX RBB head, so it should net another 10-15hp (according to Endyn).

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4751sm.jpg

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4749sm.jpg

Note it is marked RBC (vs. RBB). These marking correlate with the intake manifold they were designed to operate with (OE). If that's true, then the K20A2 should indicate PRB... and the JDM K20A would indicate PRC. (I think?)

Either way, Endyn indicates all the Honda Racing Teams use this head (K20 or K24).

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4748sm.jpg

Anyhow, since I didn't clearly show how to fit the engine earlier in this thread, I thought I would include a couple photos on how to best accomplish this with little effort. Again, I did this solo so it's really not that hard if done slowly and carefully.

Make sure the car is properly lifted off the ground (at least 10-12 inches). Tip the Transmission down at a 45 degree angle.

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4754sm.jpg

Starting with the trans, rotate the engine into place carefully and position your floor jack under the trans.

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4755sm.jpg

Slowly raise the trans up to level the engine between the chassis rails. Attach the front engine mounts but don't yet torque the bolts.

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4756sm.jpg

Continue to raise the trans up with the floor jack until engine is level.

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4758sm.jpg

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4759sm.jpg

MacLotus
02-21-2011, 04:39 PM
Attach the trans mount, but again, don't torque the bolts yet. Install the lower anti-rotational mounts and torque all attachments together.

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4760sm.jpg

One other cool thing I wanted to show you was the header stabilizer Full Blown fabricated. Since the header pipes come straight off the engine (10-12 inches), it was appropriate to minimize stress where the manifold attaches the head.

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4762sm.jpg

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4763sm.jpg

Here it is mounted and it keeps the headers rigid with the engine.

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4765sm.jpg

So with the installation of the new head, and the re-installation of the engine and rear suspension components, I was able to successfully start the engine and run it for a few moments problem free. Here is the second 'First Start' video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5LrfFy7e_5c

I was really surprised how responsive the engine/throttle was. Must have a little to do with that light flywheel!

Next post... the Dyno!!

Stay tuned... Mac out

marks_lude
02-21-2011, 05:01 PM
:beer: Congrats! Can't wait to see the dyno!

pachood
02-21-2011, 05:15 PM
Very cool Ken!

Maybe its a blessing in disguise. Cant go wrong with more power right? The extra work sucks, but getting a proven part on a motor up to this level is pretty awesome.
Hopefully I can help out at the MOA show and see this thing :)

Chippy569
02-21-2011, 05:24 PM
AWESOME! Can't wait to see more!

MacLotus
03-30-2011, 03:48 PM
Greetings my faithful forum following! We finally near the end of this incredible project as I have finally put the car on the dyno and driven it. As expected.... Wow!! It's a little scary... but then I just need some time to get used to it.

After the successful first starts and adjustments to AFR, I reinstalled the rear clam shell and buttoned things up for the trip to Full Blown Motorsports for the dyno. After starting it back up with the clam in place, I noticed those 'over-the-top' headers can generate some heat. While things probably would have been just fine, I felt the rear deck lid was getting a little warm without airflow (at idle when the car is not moving). I managed to find some 1/4" heat barrier on eBay and with the help of some double-sided carpet tape and some aluminum duct tape, I was able to create an amazingly efficient heat barrier for my rear deck lid.

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4774sm.jpg

I think it looks great and the deck lid is absolutely cool to the touch... and I might add the cool zone is as cool as can be!! Even after 15 minutes at idle.

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4777sm.jpg

Lastly, I decided to change the rear license plate from 'Rover Power' to 'Frankenstein'.

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4782sm.jpg
__________________________________________________ __________________________

"Sometimes it becomes necessary to dig up the right parts to create the perfect beast."
- Dr. Victor Frankenstein

Lotus Chassis... TSX Block... Z3 Head... RSX Type S Transmission... Hondata Brains... To his memory shall this build be dedicated.
__________________________________________________ __________________________

And now, after much anticipation... the dyno video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dlQCyW0t0Ys

Some of you may have expected more... I know I was. My target was 275whp. After much discussion with LJ at Full Blown Motorsports (my tuner), we believe the HP (or lack there-of) is attributable to two things... or more aptly put, two decisions I made during the build process. Cam choice and sticking with the 25 degree TSX VTC.

Originally, I had planned to use IPS K10's with a 50 degree VTC gear, but after discussing the issue with Larry @ Endyn, and the risk involved when using 12.5:1 pistons on a high-rpm K24 (bottom end designed for 9500 rpm), I didn't want to chance piston to valve collision at full spin.

I also opted to go with Endyn's cam, which is very smooth, but may be more of a mild Stage 1 (when compared to other cams on the market). Here's the specs on the Endyn Cams.

Endyn Intake Cam

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/EndynKSeriesCamsInt.jpg

Endyn Exhaust Cam

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/EndynKSeriesCamsExh.jpg

Here's the dyno graph...

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/DynoGraph.jpg

As I approached this build, I never really made my priority power or torque, but rather dependability and longevity on the track. I also didn't want so much power, it took the fun out of driving this car. So my attitude leaving the dyno was 'It is what it is. It's never been about the numbers. If after driving the car a season on the track, that I feel I need more power... change the cams and machine a TSX VTC to 45 degrees and stick it in. Then you'll have your 280whp."

So with that... I drive it for the first time (albeit my neighborhood and not the track).

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vyvM606EL-w

All I can say is that based on what I felt from the car, this is more than ample power for a 1650 lb track car. I will have to re-learn how to drive the car (given its new attitude), so maybe a season under my belt and I'll opt to go with more aggressive cams and VTC... but maybe not? Time will tell.

Next stop is to have the car corner balanced and put on it's new Hankook slicks... then it's on to the track for some fun (May 2nd @ BIR). Hope to see you there!

And stay tuned for some exciting track video, as I just finished designing a cool new digital dash overlay with all the car's telemetry (in HD).

Stay tuned... Mac out!

Scuba_Steve
03-30-2011, 03:54 PM
Very nice, looking forward to seeing the car in person. However, the name Frankenstein (http://www.mnautox.com/forums/showthread.php?14830-Introducing-Frankenstein-480-Horsepower-Miata&highlight=frankenstein) is already taken :)

marks_lude
03-30-2011, 04:10 PM
Congrats!! You truly build an amazing car. I would think 240whp with a 1650 lb car would be plenty to keep a healthy smile on your face for a while. Very nice looking torque curve as well. Hope to see it in person some time!

JCN
03-30-2011, 04:57 PM
That is a phenomenally flat torque curve. I need two more cylinders!

Derek69SS
03-31-2011, 07:18 AM
That is a phenomenally flat torque curve. I need two more cylinders!

Only 2? :evil:

pachood
03-31-2011, 12:46 PM
See you on the second!

I still see 2 seats in that car, maybe I can talk you into giving me a ride :D

Shane86
03-31-2011, 04:00 PM
That is a phenomenally flat torque curve. I need two more cylinders!
so you can have 2 more cylnders than him?
K24 out of a TSX is still a 4-Cylnder

gumby4mayor
03-31-2011, 05:59 PM
Just read this build from front to back...very nice work, and way to be persistent! Hopefully we see this thing at a few MAC Autox events. Congrats!

JCN
03-31-2011, 10:03 PM
so you can have 2 more cylnders than him?
K24 out of a TSX is still a 4-Cylnder

Hahaha! I fail. I have NSXs on the brain.

pachood
03-31-2011, 10:05 PM
Hahaha! I fail. I have NSXs on the brain.
I was starting to think you built a massive twin. Maybe an rc51 motor powering that s2000?

Dave Kral
03-31-2011, 10:54 PM
Hahaha! I fail. I have NSXs on the brain.

I have the same affliction! Let me know if you find a cure. :lol::lol:

Andrew
04-01-2011, 12:29 AM
I have the same affliction! Let me know if you find a cure. :lol::lol:

There's one problem I could stand to have.

oldtoyota
04-01-2011, 06:51 AM
Hahaha! I fail. I have NSXs on the brain.

Why didn't you jump on this? It is as nice of an example as you will find.

http://www.mnautox.com/forums/showthread.php?15261-FS-1993-NSX-Red-Ivory-34K-miles

MacLotus
04-01-2011, 06:54 AM
BTW guys... taking the car to Cars & Coffee tomorrow (Sat, 4/2). It would be great to see you there!!

Ken

BriK
04-01-2011, 08:38 AM
BTW guys... taking the car to Cars & Coffee tomorrow (Sat, 4/2). It would be great to see you there!!

Ken

Oooooo, I'll definitely be ogling this one.

marks_lude
04-01-2011, 09:30 AM
BTW guys... taking the car to Cars & Coffee tomorrow (Sat, 4/2). It would be great to see you there!!

Ken

I'm planning on going. Can't wait to see it.

MacLotus
04-04-2011, 04:04 PM
As some of you may know, the Lotus Elise Series 1 Sport 190 (European Market) has some rather unique tire sizes which can be quite difficult to source here in the U.S. (specifically the front tires). Because of the PIA factor (& cost) involved in shipping tires from the UK, I decided to try some performance track tires (DOT Slicks) in a slightly larger size. I'm posting this information primarily for those S1 owners looking a little more grip from a wider track tire. It's also my intent to post how the tires perform on the track as the Hankook Ventus slicks are rather new to the US market.

OEM - Front Tires - 195/50R/15 Yokohama Advan - (195 x 50% = 97.5mm Wide)
OEM - Rear Tires - 225/45R/16 Yokohama Advan - (225 x 45% = 101.25mm Wide)

After looking at the Hoosiers, Kumho, and Hankook's, I opted for the Hankook Ventus Z214.

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Hankook&tireModel=Ventus+Z214

The smallest 15 inch performance tire I could source was a 205/50R/15, which is slightly taller and wider. These would also probably fit a little better on a 6.5-7" wheel, where mine is 6".

205 x 50% = 102.5mm (+5mm H - +10mm W)

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4786sm.jpg

After installing them, I took a drive around the block and maxed out my steering both left and right (tight U-Turn) without rubbing. I also tried some compressed-suspension turns, but obviously difficult to emulate the race track (at least without pissing off my neighbors). Still no rubbing or contact. I am running negative camber so that may help too.

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4788sm.jpg

For the rear tires, I had a choice between a 225/50 or a 245/45.

225 x 50% = 112.5mm (+11mm H - 0 mm W)
245 x 45% = 110.25mm (+9mm H - +22mm W)

I chose the latter (245/45) and they seem pretty darn meaty. Now I did have rubbing problems with the OE tires when running the OE Koni Dampers/springs, but that was cured when I installed Nitrons with Eibach Springs with spring helpers (500lb springs front/750lb springs rear). They never rubbed again. Now I've gone even larger, and still no rubbing... but only the track will truly tell.

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4787sm.jpg

I have to say, they look a LOT beefier than the smaller ADVAN's.

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Honda%20Conversion/IMG_4783sm.jpg

The car will be weighed, corner balanced, and other geometry tweaks on April 14th, so I'll post 'before/after conversion' info for those interested.

Chippy569
04-04-2011, 04:14 PM
Car looked (and sounded!) great @ C&C, I should have the audio clip for you if you want it. It was nice to meet you and the car is phenomenal. The TSX stickers all over (on the wheels, really?) is a neat touch.

MacLotus
04-04-2011, 04:37 PM
Would love to hear it David. Can you post on this thread?

MacLotus
04-05-2011, 06:53 AM
Went to 'Cars & Coffee' this weekend and another car enthusiast shot this video of me while I was unloading the car. Sounds good! Wheels spin pretty easily!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d3sHFgbvhIU

Thanks for posting!

Chippy569
04-05-2011, 08:27 AM
Here you go, give yourself a good listen: http://snd.sc/hReJZy

what was the date of the event @ MOA again? 23rd?

MacLotus
04-05-2011, 11:41 AM
Yes... the 23rd. That sounds like a Porsche... not a K24.

Chippy569
04-05-2011, 05:48 PM
Lol, it's yours... Listen and watch your video.

MacLotus
04-05-2011, 06:01 PM
Lol, it's yours... Listen and watch your video.

I did. It doesn't match up. The sound you posted is definitely a 911. No mistaking a Porsche my friend.

Chippy569
04-05-2011, 06:41 PM
ah ****, you're right. I had 206 clips from the day, lol. I need to find a better system to match the clips to the cars.

This one is definitely yours. http://snd.sc/dHPfek

MacLotus
04-06-2011, 07:28 AM
Ahh yes... that's definitely the Lotus. No mistaking that! On my computer, it sounds as though a stereo channel is missing and the gain is real low. Anyhow, thanks for posting and it was great chatting with you Sat!

Cheers!

Ken

Chippy569
04-06-2011, 07:47 AM
it's a mono recording, sorry! I'm not rich enough for two mics in that boom, lol.

MacLotus
04-06-2011, 09:41 AM
No worries mate! ... but Mono should record on both channels. I noticed the other recordings online played the sound out of both speakers... only one on mine. Not sure why? May have been a faulty connection. Anyhow... mono is good for motorsports work! I use it in all my videos (except background music).

Cheers!

Chippy569
04-06-2011, 01:59 PM
Agreed. Someday when I have lots of money I'll be able to afford a Sanken CSS-5 stereo shotgun, which is what quite a few pro sound recorders use for sfx collecting, but that's a $2100 mic. Apparently I can re-upload tracks, so I've re-upped it as a two-channel mono. You can also download the .wav yourself, on the soundcloud page, above the track, is a downward-pointing arrow, click it and it should give you download options. It says it's ~9mb.

MacLotus
05-04-2011, 04:27 PM
Bought a new enclosed auto trailer, so I'll be selling my current trailer once I take delivery at the end of the month.

Make: Gullickson 16'
Year: 1997
VERY LITTLE MILES/USE
Model: U1622FDT - 2' Dove Tail

Electric Brakes
Radial Tires (near new) with Spare
7000lb GVW (Twin 3500lb Axles both with brakes)
102" Wide - 83" Between Fenders

5' Diamond Plate Ramps with Under Trailer Storage - I added some wood planks to make these longer, but the wood is easily removed if not desired.

2" Pressure Treated Wood (Shows weathering but plenty strong).
DOT Lighting
Heavy Duty Safety Breakaway with Battery
2" Bulldog Coupler - Requires 2" Ball
D-Ring Tie Downs - 12' apart

All Original Receipts/Manuals

$675 Cash Buys It! ... obo - Best offers wait till the end of the month for acceptance. Buyer must wait/take delivery till the end of May.

**Pay asking price and I'll throw in tie-down straps and power winch.

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Trailer.jpg

Lotus not included. :-P

Ken McNeill
612-743-2317

washburn
05-04-2011, 05:18 PM
Phone message left for you....

MacLotus
05-04-2011, 05:31 PM
SOLD! Pending promised 'Paypal Down Payment' and final purchase/delivery by the end of the month.

Thanks for the call Chris!

MacLotus
06-17-2011, 01:52 PM
Well I finally had a chance to get the car out to Road America this week and stretch it's legs. Took it easy as I adjust to the new available power, so not the fastest out there (second time at the track and still breaking in engine too).


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nilH_dD9y0M

As for the larger tires and rubbing... the jury is still out. It seems they were fine at BIR for two track days (mild spirited driving), but then I began to notice a little rubbing on the fiberglass on the left-rear (aft at about 9:00 o'clock position looking at wheel). Actually... the LR suspension felt spongy when compared to the RR, so I had to take it easy on RH turns.

I switched back to my A048's and the LR still felt spongy, and I could swear I heard rubbing... but no evidence of it. If you listen closely in 12 & 14 (and 1), you can hear it. This video is with the A048's on.

It feels like my Eibach 750lb spring has gone weak? Is that possible? (Randy Nitrons). Anyhow, I need to do some more testing at BIR next week. Road America does have a ton of off-camber and vertical elevation challenges that really work a suspension, while BIR is FLAT... so we'll see if it is just the track.

Lastly, look for my new trackside 'Digital Dash Designs' business this next spring. Your video... your logger.... my software/dashboard package ($249). Easy to use... Import your video... import your logger data... sync with slider bar... output in the format of your choice! Easy!! There will be many custom dashboards to choose from (including NightVision)!

Cheers!

murph
06-17-2011, 02:19 PM
Ken - that software sounds awesome, do you plan to support MaxQData?

MacLotus
06-17-2011, 02:30 PM
Ken - that software sounds awesome, do you plan to support MaxQData?

Yes. Fully supported!

Solid
06-17-2011, 03:38 PM
That looks great! Awesome software!
Nice driving: Good lines, smooth imputs.
I would like to see a video when your not short shifting.
The motor sounds good, I haven't followed your blog lately but you must have all the kinks worked out. It's an awesome project and I'm happy to see it up and running.

Chippy569
06-17-2011, 09:21 PM
Ken, looks great! Glad to hear the car running, sounds good! (Sounds like an angry honda :P) Is that footage from the gopro as well? Very cool.

Would like to see the GPS dot on the track map a little bigger.

MacLotus
06-17-2011, 10:02 PM
Ken, looks great! Glad to hear the car running, sounds good! (Sounds like an angry honda :P) Is that footage from the gopro as well? Very cool.

Would like to see the GPS dot on the track map a little bigger.

Yes. GoPro video... And the dot on the track map will have size adjustability in the next software revision. Currently it's small when rendering in full HD (1920x1080) resolution. Much larger at 720p or NTSC 480.

Cheers!

MacLotus
08-22-2011, 10:24 AM
Just an update for those following. The car has been running great! When I last ran Road America in June, I was concerned about some tire rubbing, but after swapping the dampers side-to-side, and adjusting them up a bit... rubbing is slight if any. At least not enough to worry about.

I still have yet to push the car to the limits I did with the VHPD, as I have had to learn how to drive the car again. That coupled with little issues (related to the conversion) has made driving beyond 80% a bit distracting. (i.e. overheating - due to air bubbles trapped in all the extensive plumbing... the over-sized slicks rubbing... and most recently, I broke the welds in my headers).

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/110613RoadAmericaRacing04.jpg

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/110613RoadAmericaRacing02.jpg

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/110613RoadAmericaRacing01.jpg

Currently the car is back in the shop for a little redesign on the exhaust system to better allow the headers and exhaust system to flex better. We've got it figured out and will have it back together this week with multiple flex joints.

Hankook slicks have been working great and will definitely consider using them again. I may try some Kumho's too in the same size to see what I like better.

I've really been focused on my new trailer. Bought it new recently and started to customize it for track-side comfort. Came with bare wood walls, but I installed some carpet throughout. This was right after I got it, but currently it's got AC, generator, stereo and 30" flatscreen monitor. I'm actually setting this trailer up for track-side marketing of Digital Dash Designs demos.

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/110613RoadAmericaPaddock04.jpg

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/110613RoadAmericaPaddock01.jpg

Here's a shot of my paddock area at the local PCA Club Race. I got the local Lotus/Jaguar/Land Rover dealer to sponsor me at all the signature club races. In a nutshell, they pay my entry fees and I park brand new Lotus cars smack dab in the middle of their event. You should have seen some of the looks I got from the event organizers (sponsored by Porsche dealer). It was like parking an Evora right in the middle of the Porsche showroom. :p

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/PaddockShot.jpg

Here's a video of me mixing it up with the Porsche's. First lap is a warm-up... no passing allowed (boy they have lot's of rules)... but fun none the less.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=57KEKZcFsb0

MacLotus
08-22-2011, 10:25 AM
I also had the chance to attend the Rolex Grand Am road race at Road America courtesy of Target/Ganassi Racing. Since the wife works for Target corporate, she arranged for some VIP passes.

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/RAGrandAM010.jpg

Got to hang with Scott Pruett and Memo Rojas for the afternoon.

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/RAGrandAM003.jpg

Photo with Tim Keane, Ganassi TelMex/Target Team Manager.

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/RAGrandAM001.jpg

Had to get Hurley Haywood's autograph.

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/RAGrandAM008.jpg

Then the Continental Tire girl asked to take a photo with me. I must really be quite attractive to the young girls, as she called me a 'Perv'... which I'm not sure, but I'm told means 'Hot' in French (according to my 24 year old daughter).

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/my_photo.jpg

So I got that going for me. ;)

Chippy569
08-22-2011, 11:45 AM
Wow, awesome! Excellent adventure. What I wouldn't give to get to strap a bunch of mics on the 01. Too bad they came in 5th.

MacLotus
08-22-2011, 11:50 AM
Wow, awesome! Excellent adventure. What I wouldn't give to get to strap a bunch of mics on the 01. Too bad they came in 5th.

The won that race!!

Chippy569
08-22-2011, 11:51 AM
the red dragon won....


OH WAIT ****! it was montreal that was on TV, and RA isn't until next weekend. Stupid SPEED.

MacLotus
08-22-2011, 11:51 AM
First in Standings!!

http://www.grand-am.com/standings/index.cfm?series=r

Go Target!!

MacLotus
09-17-2011, 08:49 PM
Ahhh... the sound of K-power and iVTEC!


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x26VNl13iJM

MacLotus
10-12-2011, 09:39 AM
For Sale! This car can be yours!

http://www.mnautox.com/forums/showthread.php?17208-FS-1999-Lotus-Elise-Sport-190-w-TSX-K24&p=202248#post202248

MacLotus
11-14-2011, 03:39 PM
I was going to sell my Lotus for an opportunity to build a new CSR race car, but had a change of heart given all the work I've put in to it. That and it truly is a blast to drive!

This past season, I had the opportunity to take a ride in a light track car with MUCH wider tires. It was then that I came to realize that one of the weaker links my Lotus has is it's narrow tires. That said, I've decided to address the issue rather than sell the car and build another.

This winter's DIY project will be to widen the car's track 5", adding 2.5" (62.5mm) of rubber to each tire. 17" wheels in the front, 18" wheels in the rear with extreme low profile Hoosier slicks (to maintain approx OE tire heights.

In order to pull this off, the car's look will change radically from 'track prepared' to 'sophisticated street custom'.

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Wide%20Body%20Conversion/EliseS1WideBodyDesign.jpg

This project will be starting a new thread soon, and will detail rim/tire selection, sizing, and potential handling changes (i.e. scrub radius). Much of the post will focus on forming the wide-body fenders and custom composites.

MacLotus
11-29-2011, 01:55 PM
I just got my trailer back from my cabinetry guy. Looks pretty good! Notice the spare tires/rims below. Air Conditioner/Heater in the lower left cabinet... Generator in the lower right. Some of you may be asking why the flat screen monitor? I'll use this trailer to provide track-side promotion of 'Digital Dash Designs', as well as BIR Driving School promotion at local car events. I also record various racing events and play them for entertainment at weekend track stays. Now to install the new sound system with sub-woofer and custom lighting.

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/TrailerCabinetry.jpg

Maybe a spinning disco ball too??

pachood
11-29-2011, 02:18 PM
So what, watching "Notorious" track-side in the van just isnt cutting it any more?

The trailer as a promotional, and functional tool is a fantastic idea. Kill two birds with one stone.

Yes, disco ball. Maybe some lasers, and smoke is a must.

MacLotus
01-25-2012, 12:56 PM
It's time for an update. Here's where I'm at...

This is by far the most challenging project I've undertaken with my Lotus. I think that's because in addition to a steep technical learning curve of composites and bodywork, this project requires innovative engineering application/thought and creative artistry. It's not as black and white as an engine swap and the finished product will be 'front and center' evident in craftsmanship and detail. The scary part is that I have no back-up clam shells available to fall back on, so I better hit the target on the first try.

In early December, I finalized the design. Note I've decided to install HID projector beams and all LED lighting. I shaved the front turn indicators and will install LED lights in the brake-air intakes. These are 'always-on' super bright LED's for daytime running lights (DRL's) and change to flashing amber for turn signalling. Very cool product! I've also removed the OE Driving Lights and will install new custom grille's (front, side & rear).

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Wide%20Body%20Conversion/FinalWidebody1sm.jpg

Lastly, the front fenders (just behind the front wheels) have been widened similar to the Hennessy Venom GT (below).

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Wide%20Body%20Conversion/2011-hennessey-venom-gt-1.jpg

In order to get a sense of what the front end mods would look like, I did some photoshop mods to a photo of an Elise-to-Exige conversion.

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Wide%20Body%20Conversion/FrontRender.jpg

In order to pull this off, the first thing needed was a healthy budget and a ton of time. By that I mean $10K in materials (minimum) and 300-400 hours in time. The up side is that the car will be unique... one of a kind. If I'm lucky, someday I may get half of what I've got invested. :boink:

The first big ticket item... custom 3-piece wheels from SSR. I ordered these last week and found that they have a 3 month lead time (made to order from Japan). It was difficult to find wheels with such a radical offset. Cost $3K. Here's a photo of the SSR SP1 - Flat Black - 18x10.5 3 Piece Custom Wheel.

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Wide%20Body%20Conversion/SSRSP1Wheel.jpg

These wheels are not available in the 4x95.25mm PCD, but were available in 4x100mm PCD, so that's the way I ordered them. I removed the Lotus hubs and took them to my local machine shop where they drilled them with a 4x100mm pattern. Ordered some new press-in lug studs so I'm set to go.

While I'm increasing the wheel diameter 2" (front and rear), I'm maintaining OE tire height by going with super low-profile Hoosier slicks. This will maintain the fantastic look of the Elise and keep the ride height where it is.

To that point, I wanted to maintain the OE wheel openings when widening the fenders/wheels 2.5". I'd need to build some forms to support the liquid foam I intend to use for sculpting. I taped some paper to each wheel well and put a light behind it. Now it was pretty easy to trace the exact curvature of each well.

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Wide%20Body%20Conversion/IMG_5072sm.jpg

From that, I created some wood forms that will serve as the base for my mold that will form the foam wheel well shape. I also created the mold support for the front lip. Note that I shaved the turn signal lights, the front k'nards, and the aftermarket front splitter.

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Wide%20Body%20Conversion/IMG_5153sm.jpg

While I've not yet cut out the single headlamp to accommodate (2) HID projectors, I did order a Hella 90mm lamp for exact measurement and fitment.

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Wide%20Body%20Conversion/IMG_5156sm.jpg

Now I've never done fiberglass composite work, so before tackling my car's fenders and such I wanted to get some practice on a smaller project so I'd know what I was in for. While most composite parts (fiberglass and carbon fiber) are created using a waxed mold, the first custom part is typically made using a mold-less composite process.

This means the fiberglass needs to be layed-up (wet lay-up) on foam or wood. Obviously foam is much easier to sand and sculpt, but lacks the structural strength of wood. Depending on your project, you might choose one or the other... or a combination of both.

I purchased some Styrene foam (insulation) from Lowe's down the street to form the mold for my first project... a center console. I wanted a console that would hold my engine gauges, Traqmate Data Logger display unit, and a few lighted switches. It will ultimately be a combination (as will the rest of the new interior) of black suede and carbon fiber. I'll also be replacing the seats and racing harness belts.

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Wide%20Body%20Conversion/IMG_5152sm.jpg

So this week I'm preparing to lay-up my first composite project. I'll keep you posted.

Mac out...

MAYcar
01-25-2012, 03:08 PM
Couple of thoughts for your composite work.

1) Make sure you use epoxy resin, vinylester resins will eat your foam core and are toxic to breath.

2) If you lay up over the foam core the cloth will stick to the foam. Coat the foam core with "Tuck Tape", it is available in home improvement stores, it's the stuff they use for taping the seams in house wraps. If you do this your fiberglass (or carbon) will not stick to the foam buck, you can just pry it a little and it should pop off. Again, this only works with epoxy resin.

3) If your looking to increase the strength (stiffness) of a piece and keep it light, use some foam core or poly core. I typically buy my stuff from Express Composites in Minneapolis ( http://www.expresscomposites.com/ ), good people and good prices.

Good luck!

MacLotus
01-25-2012, 04:26 PM
Couple of thoughts for your composite work.

1) Make sure you use epoxy resin, vinylester resins will eat your foam core and are toxic to breath.

It's all epoxy. (Urethane & Styrene safe)


2) If you lay up over the foam core the cloth will stick to the foam. Coat the foam core with "Tuck Tape", it is available in home improvement stores, it's the stuff they use for taping the seams in house wraps. If you do this your fiberglass (or carbon) will not stick to the foam buck, you can just pry it a little and it should pop off. Again, this only works with epoxy resin.

Good to know for the urethane foam. The styrene easily melts with acetone.


3) If your looking to increase the strength (stiffness) of a piece and keep it light, use some foam core or poly core. I typically buy my stuff from Express Composites in Minneapolis ( http://www.expresscomposites.com/ ), good people and good prices.

Some of the foam will stay just for that purpose. Thanks!

MacLotus
11-28-2012, 10:46 AM
Just an update on the progress. Most of this final phase has been to coat the green filler (a fiberglass-filler that's super strong, but will not sand fine enough for paint) with a fine filler that sands very smooth (but lacks strength (so a very thin layer coat sanded with 180 grit).

I finally had the opportunity to lower the car on its new wider wheels/tires after nearly a year up on jack-stands. While I was very careful to calculate tire sizes, wheel widths & offsets, and full turning clearance, there is always a chance for error.. so a little anxiety is to be expected. Better to catch that now rather than after paint... right?

No unexpected lemons here. Tight, very precise, but works as expected. I will adjust the front ride-height up just a little, but the overall look is what I was after. Funny how after the car is 18" in the air for a year, it seems about 2 ft. high after it's lowered back to the ground.

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/IMG_6797sm.jpg

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/IMG_6795sm.jpg

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/IMG_6799sm.jpg

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/IMG_6801sm.jpg

Here is a view of the rear when the wing assembly is removed. These brackets will protrude just a little through the mesh vent, but they will be black anodized with carbon fiber on the flat sides.

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/IMG_6804sm.jpg

You may also see that I had several holes drilled in the brackets just aft of the sub-frame. There will be a cross-brace between the two brackets that will support the exhaust system.

The 67" APR wing is added in these next photos and I'm happy to say that even in it's 'lowest setting' (as shown), it gets quite a bit of clean air bite over each rear fender (due to it's extreme width). It's MUCH wider than the EP Sport Wing I had previously, which allows the air foil to sit directly over each rear wheel (longitudinally speaking).

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/IMG_6819sm.jpg

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/IMG_6817sm.jpg

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/IMG_6820sm.jpg

larry200
11-28-2012, 12:37 PM
Thanks for the update! Some of us were wondering how this was progressing.

-- Larry "not progressing" B.

marks_lude
11-28-2012, 01:58 PM
Man you don't hold back do you?!? I really hope to see this in person when it is all buttoned up!

MacLotus
06-07-2013, 11:00 AM
Nearing final reassembly of my widebody project. I made a change in the final color choice to Giallo Modena (Ferrari Yellow). A 3 stage pearl is just too much trouble to maintain on a track car, where this is much easier to touch up and/or panel re-paint for exact match.

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Wide%20Body%20Conversion/IMG_7095sm_zpscd21296e.jpg

I still have to install the head lamp tinted lens covers, as well as the carbon fiber airfoils in the front airvents (which also encase the LED daytime running lamps/turn indicators). I also need to install the rear air diffuser and wheel arch liners.

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Wide%20Body%20Conversion/IMG_7082sm_zps630dabf3.jpg

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Wide%20Body%20Conversion/IMG_7081sm_zpsc5091e6d.jpg

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Wide%20Body%20Conversion/IMG_7083sm_zpsd17fded2.jpg

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Wide%20Body%20Conversion/IMG_7084sm_zps7b29f94a.jpg

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Wide%20Body%20Conversion/IMG_7085sm_zps695fdf59.jpg

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Wide%20Body%20Conversion/IMG_7086sm_zps8fb2932a.jpg

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx322/MacLotus/Wide%20Body%20Conversion/IMG_7089sm_zps1defb95d.jpg

JCN
06-07-2013, 12:21 PM
Looking good!

marks_lude
06-07-2013, 01:27 PM
Looks amazing Ken. Thanks for sharing.

MPosey
06-07-2013, 01:33 PM
When can I ride in this?! I just want to feel it at speed! It's super sweet.

EWAustin
06-14-2013, 10:27 AM
that's beautiful, I can't help but stare at the pictures.

Can't wait to see it in person!

Sloth
06-14-2013, 12:08 PM
The back is nice but the front and side looks like a MR-S. Maybe if you start with a MR-S then make it look like a Elise.

Gman
06-23-2013, 10:40 PM
I saw this at BIR today. The pictures just can't convey how this car looks. It is absolutely gorgeous! I would have loved to see this run.
Oh, it sounds better than it looks.

the tick
11-10-2013, 09:48 AM
Looks like there is an opportunity for someone...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lotus-Elise-GT-Widebody-w-Ultra-High-Torque-N-A-2-4L-Honda-Eng-Concept-Supercar-Exotic-Exige-/131035536481?forcerrptr=true&hash=item1e82539c61&item=131035536481&pt=US_Cars_Trucks

phile
11-10-2013, 03:55 PM
Looks like there is an opportunity for someone...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lotus-Elise-GT-Widebody-w-Ultra-High-Torque-N-A-2-4L-Honda-Eng-Concept-Supercar-Exotic-Exige-/131035536481?forcerrptr=true&hash=item1e82539c61&item=131035536481&pt=US_Cars_Trucks

A lot of coin for a car with no USA certification for street use. I'm sure I could get a seriously-fast Lotus with license plates for that.

MacLotus
03-11-2014, 08:36 AM
For those interested, the car was just featured in European Car magazine (May 2014 issue). The car is running awesome and should be street legal next month (when the snow melts for inspection). Now running E85 fuel.

http://www.mcneillmedia.net/elisegt/magazine/index.html